Vapor lock problem on a 1956

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CtCarGuy said:
I have a simular problem whereas the car will only run on the electric. I replaced the tank, the 2 filters in front of the electric pump, the fuel line to the pump, put in a pre-tested new pump, changed the filter in the bowl and the inlet filter. I mention all of this because I have a new theory. I think the first filter (a inexpensive in-line) may be causing enough restriction to not allow the mechanical pump to pull fuel. That change is scheduled for tomorrow Also there have been a lot of bad fuel pumps being sold. I got my pre-tested one from Prestige. I know at least the vacuum portion is working. Got caught in a sudden rain storm the the old vacuum wipers worked fine.
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Update: The reason the mechanical pump would not work was because of the hose. I replaced the hose to the pump when I put in the new pump. It took 3 years to figure out. Someone suggested examining the hose. The fuel line is 5/16" from the tank. The opening in the house was 3/32". I built a new hose using 5/16" fuel hose and now my mechanical works fine. I did check with the suppliers, of the 6 I wrote to, only NPD replied and said all the hoses are 3/32". I am surprised that no one else has had this problem. Hope this helps.
 
CtCarGuy said:
I have a simular problem whereas the car will only run on the electric. I replaced the tank, the 2 filters in front of the electric pump, the fuel line to the pump, put in a pre-tested new pump, changed the filter in the bowl and the inlet filter. I mention all of this because I have a new theory. I think the first filter (a inexpensive in-line) may be causing enough restriction to not allow the mechanical pump to pull fuel. That change is scheduled for tomorrow Also there have been a lot of bad fuel pumps being sold. I got my pre-tested one from Prestige. I know at least the vacuum portion is working. Got caught in a sudden rain storm the the old vacuum wipers worked fine.
Click to expand...
Sounds to me like you have a Vapor lock, in your Gas Tank. Are you running a Vented or unvented gas Cap.!! On this old cars always run a Vented gas cap. If you do not have one drill 3 or 4 3/32 holes through the top of Cap right on thru till you see day light !! You would be surprised to see Gas tanks crushed inword due to No venting or clogged venting. Plus Car will run faster on the Track, a Hot Rod Trick !!!
 
In my 1955 Tbird, for years I had no problem, but within the last couple of years when the car sits in a normal garage, car starts right up.
It drives beautifully. Then when I stop the engine and if it sets in the sun on a warm day, the engine will turn over til there is no battery power left, but won't start. I make sure that I shoot starter fluid into the carb. Twice now, the following happened. A person would let me connect to their car with battery cables. Their car would run at a higher RPM, but it would not be until my engine turned over for a number of minutes and with me shooting starter fluid into the carb, would it miraculously start.
Any and all help would be helpful.
 
DiIanni said:
In my 1955 Tbird, for years I had no problem, but within the last couple of years when the car sits in a normal garage, car starts right up.
It drives beautifully. Then when I stop the engine and if it sets in the sun on a warm day, the engine will turn over til there is no battery power left, but won't start. I make sure that I shoot starter fluid into the carb. Twice now, the following happened. A person would let me connect to their car with battery cables. Their car would run at a higher RPM, but it would not be until my engine turned over for a number of minutes and with me shooting starter fluid into the carb, would it miraculously start.
Any and all help would be helpful.
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You should start a new thread for this problem
 
Most likely not vapor lock, much more likely percolation/heat soak and affects MANY older cars. Here's what is happening, after a good run and you park the car in the heat, after a few minutes the underhood temperatures spike and fuel starts dribbing out of the carb "squirters" and raw fuel sits on the intake manifold runners; after about 45 minutes it'll evaporate but until that happens you will be starting a flodded car and those procedures apply. You have to hold the accelerator pedal on the floor which opens the throttle plates and the raw gas is sucked into the engine and then the car should start but will prob run rough for a minute or two. You can test this by buyiing a Harbor Frieght cheap I/R temp tun and "shoot" the carb bowls after a hot drive, any temps north of 135* or so indicates "heat soak"; in addition you may hear the fuel boiling in the carb and see the nozzles dribbling fuel down the carb bores - sure signs of the problem
 
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