Accelerator Pedal Rod ('57 Thunderbird)

[86lxcoupe]

I'm having issues getting the accelerator pedal height correct in my '57. I can't get the accelerator pedal height up past 3" and the book calls for 4 7/8" on a '57 thunderbird.

As a consequence of this, when you floor the pedal, you do not get full throttle engagement. When you work the 'grasshopper' under the hood by hand to full throttle, the rod pops out of the back of the accelerator pedal. Obviously there's something wrong here.

I've locked the 'grasshopper' in place with the 1/4" drill bit and the threaded rod that sets the pedal height is extended as long as it will go. 3" is all I can get out of the adjustment.

I went ahead and removed the piece of linkage from the accelerator pedal that goes through the firewall and measured and took a few pics. If anyone has one I can compare mine to, that would be great. Not sure if the curve in it is correct or not — it doesn't appear bent to the naked eye. I don't want to flatten that curve in a vise if it is indeed correct and the problem is elsewhere. Tip to tip is 5 7/8"

Nothing else in the setup looks bent or twisted.

Thanks!
Kent

 

[Pink T-Bird]

The casco catalog shows the curve is correct. the high point of the curve should be on top and the connection to the linkage points left.

Rod - Accelerator Pedal - 1 Per car-classictbird.com

www.classictbird.com

What looks off is the rod from the carb to the kickdown linkage (I think you are calling that the grasshopper?). shouldn't that be different bend than what you show? look at the blow up sketch here:
https://www.classictbird.com/Rod-Carb-to-Kickdown-57-With-F_M-1-Per-car/productinfo/9747/

Why is your kick down rod missing?

 

[86lxcoupe]

Pink T-Bird —
Thanks for the reply. Glad to know that piece is not bent.

I have my TV rod off on a separate project. Had to drop the trans pan and remove valve body. Trans shop that rebuilt the Fordomatic installed the throttle valve incorrectly. This caused limited throttle movement and resulted in damaged parts.

Trying to get all the linkage set up correctly before it all goes back together.

I removed the threaded rod that adjusts pedal height and fully extended its 5 1/4”. Does anyone have one off a ‘57 they could verify for me? (Pics attached). I’d like to make sure this is the correct one before I start bending stuff.

thanks!

 

[Cuul59]

Hi Kent,
Your accelerator link is fine and looks like mine. What you might want to check is the throttle link. Your picture shows it very bent, not straight like the one in the picture of mine, however mine is a manual transmission, so it’s different than an automatic. Anyway, I hope these pictures will help. Take a look at the drawings in the Parts Illustrated manual. They may give you a clue. That’s what your set-up needs to look like. If you don’t have a good drawing, I’d like to make one more suggestion, once you get the pedal height correct, make sure that rod end will stay snug in rubber slot in the back of your pedal. Mine was all hard and dried-up so I replaced the pedal...you might need to do the same.

 

[86lxcoupe]

Cuul59 —
Appreciate the pictures! Big help seeing the diagram. Looks like the issue is either with the threaded rod or the long Double L piece bolted to the firewall.
When making the adjustments per the shop manual, I locked the ‘grasshopper’ in place with a 1/4” drill bit. This eliminates the rod going to the carb when setting pedal height.
Out of curiosity I pulled the carb rod off and got a few pics as well as a rough measurement — approx. 7 7/8” long. Doesn’t appear to be bent (looks like it was made that way), but anything’s possible at this point!

 

[86lxcoupe]

After looking at pics on here and my friend's '57 and comparing setups, the conclusion was my double-L rod on the firewall was bent... slightly. I removed it from the car and mounted it on my workbench. Was expecting a battle to get any bending action, but it moved surprisingly easy.



Got lucky as I bent it it just the right amount the first time. Verified 4 7/8" pedal height with the 1/4 drill bit in the bell crank. Adjusted the rod going to the carburetor and presto — everything works as advertised. No more binding, and I get full throttle with the pedal — at least everything up top is moving the way it should... we'll see how it goes with the throttle rod once the valve body goes back in.

Now it's just a matter of getting the valve body back in the transmission and verifying throttle rod travel and getting pressures set correctly.

Thanks to all who've chimed in and helped. I'll keep y'all posted on how this turns out.