64 Brakes Grabbing

PLtex

PLtex

Member
Last seen
Joined
Jan 11, 2019
Thunderbird Year
1964
New to the forum. Bought this mostly original car a few months ago. The brakes are touchy and can grab when I press the pedal. I believe its a drum system. Doubt I will tackle anything too complex myself, but also don't want to walk into a shop without a clue on what might be the likely culprit and its remedy. Any advice (in layman's terminology) appreciated.
 

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The voice of experience -- if this car's an unknown, drive it very carefully to a really reputable shop, preferably one that will listen to you and work with you, and have the brake system completely rebuilt. That is, unless you want to do it yourself, which really isn't all that hard. But you need to do a lot more than simply look at the wear on the shoes -- you should replace all the brake lines and hoses, no questions asked. In fact, the hoses are probably the culprit.

Hoses can let go -- a bad scene. But the more likely problem is that they'll swell up inside, making it hard for the fluid to go through, and this will give your brakes a really funky feel. The lines can let go -- don't ask me how I know. The hole in my garage wall is evidence. The bad place in the lines is just inside that little plate under the driver's door. Mud cakes up inside and the line rusts. Replace them with stainless steel, and your grandchildren will never have to worry about them again. This is not expensive, and not hard to do. The worst is the right front -- wiggling it around all those components on the firewall. The rest, easy peasy, even the rear one.

Cylinders, either rebuild them or replace them. Master cylinder -- do it, and if there's the slightest evidence of a leak, get that booster rebuilt. In fact rebuild it anyway. Look on the internet for outfits that specialize in rebuilding boosters. I had mine done at a place in Ft. Lauderdale; don't remember the name but they were wonderful. Better than going through a catalog parts house who does the same thing with a markup.

Once you're done, you're done, and you have the peace of mind that you have good brakes.

There's another thread on this forum where someone was trying to install a dual master cylinder on his car. Yes, this can certainly be an added safety measure, but these cars have been driven billions and trillions of miles safely with the original brakes. They're fine, as long as they're in good condition.
 
Gary is correct. Replace all the lines and hoses.
Find a mechanic who works on classic cars.
 
Yes, not just classic cars, but one that will listen and work with you.

This is a bit of a pet peeve with me. My local Cadillac dealer is wonderful, and their service is great. But one thing gets me - the service rep is a guy who dresses in a suit and stands behind a counter with a computer screen -- one of about three or four such reps. Nice guy, types up the forms and such,, but then the car disappears and returns later in the day with the work done. The mechanic, technician, whatever his title is, I have no idea what he even looks like. Personally I'd rather meet and chat with this guy than with some in-between rep who probably knows little about cars.

Maybe for a new Cadillac under warranty, this is fine. But for the T-/Bird, I'd like to know exactly what was found and what he thinks of the rest of the car. Where are the parts coming from? I doubt if it's Ford. China? NAPA? A reputable place most likely uses a good source, but in the case of the booster, you could instruct him to send it to a place you specify -- or he can give it to you and you can take care of it. In my case, the speedometer just quit, and I have business relations with a dealer who specializes in gauges. -- I'd like them to rebuild it. Of course for you it's personal preference, but this is what I prefer in a shop.
 
New to the forum. Bought this mostly original car a few months ago. The brakes are touchy and can grab when I press the pedal. I believe its a drum system. Doubt I will tackle anything too complex myself, but also don't want to walk into a shop without a clue on what might be the likely culprit and its remedy. Any advice (in layman's terminology) appreciated.
My personal experience has been that new brake cylinders, shoes, springs and all the necessary parts are inexpensive and easily ordered from numerous suppliers. If you're not going to do it yourself the key is finding someone that knows how to work on older cars with these type of brakes. If you don't know the car and it's been sitting for awhile I wouldn't hesitate to do all 4 corners with new parts and evaluate the bearings, spindle, seals and so on while the system is apart. I've learned not to assume that anything has been done without having seen it with your own two eyes.

You won't know what is wrong, why the brakes are touchy until you get it apart and do a thorough inspection. When I firsst got my car I took it to a local guy that works on older cars and had him do the front wheel cylinders. I asked him about the back and he said that "someone had done them recently and they were OK" Well they looked good from the outside but when my brakes became touchy and would lock up the rear brakes I took them apart and there was a seized piston in both the drivers and passenger side wheel cylinders. Looked good but didn't work well, it can be deceiving.

Not long ago I had my 59 apart and had replaced the rear axle bearings. Everything went back together fine and so I took it out for a test cruise. About 10 miles from home I got on he freeway and the next thing I know there was a loud noise and the car leaned severly to the drivers side, of course the first thing I did was to hit the brakes. As I glance in the rear view mirror I see smoke and brake parts bouncing down the road, to my amazement I had no brakes, none, nada. Luckily there was nobody else close so I gradually pulled off to the side of the road and coasted to a complete stop. The retainer ring on the new wheel bearing had snapped and the axle came out of the housing, the tire was rubbing on the inside of the rear fender causing the smoke. With the brake drum no longer containing the brake shoes when I hit the brakes it shucked everything out and even the emergency brake wouldn't work, not having positraction even down shifting the car wouldn't slow it down. Moral of the story here is that if you have the opportunity put a dual chamber master cylinder on your car for the sake of safety and protecting your investment.
 
Thanks for the advice. So if I understand correctly, I would be smart to replace the master cylinder (is that the same as the booster?), the four brake cylinders and all hoses or metal lines the lead to them.
 
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