57 Steering Linkage install help

valhalla 4771

valhalla 4771

Active Member
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Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Thunderbird Year
1957
I'm trying to replace the steering linkage on my 57 power steering. The shop manual instructs me to remove nuts and cotter pins from both ends of the spindle connecting rods, and then I should be able to tap out the ball studs. Same with idler arm. I get one of the 6 studs to move. I've applied a liberal amount of penetrating oil to the rest without success. I've been hesitant to apply to much force to the tap. Am I missing something? Should I just bang away?
 

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Subject "57 Steering Linkage" changed to "57 Steering Linkage install help" to summarize your post.
 
I'm trying to replace the steering linkage on my 57 power steering. The shop manual instructs me to remove nuts and cotter pins from both ends of the spindle connecting rods, and then I should be able to tap out the ball studs. Same with idler arm. I get one of the 6 studs to move. I've applied a liberal amount of penetrating oil to the rest without success. I've been hesitant to apply to much force to the tap. Am I missing something? Should I just bang away?
You can use a mini sledge and hit the receiving side of the joint you
I'm trying to replace the steering linkage on my 57 power steering. The shop manual instructs me to remove nuts and cotter pins from both ends of the spindle connecting rods, and then I should be able to tap out the ball studs. Same with idler arm. I get one of the 6 studs to move. I've applied a liberal amount of penetrating oil to the rest without success. I've been hesitant to apply to much force to the tap. Am I missing something? Should I just bang away?
You can use a mini sledge to hit the receiving side of the joint you wish to separate and not the threaded side. A couple of good solid whacks should get the job done. If not try heating with a torch and then hitting it
 
I'm trying to replace the steering linkage on my 57 power steering. The shop manual instructs me to remove nuts and cotter pins from both ends of the spindle connecting rods, and then I should be able to tap out the ball studs. Same with idler arm. I get one of the 6 studs to move. I've applied a liberal amount of penetrating oil to the rest without success. I've been hesitant to apply to much force to the tap. Am I missing something? Should I just bang away?
It sometimes helps to hold a big hammer on one side not on the bolt but next to it and hit the bolt head you are trying to lossen. This gives it a bit of a shock and helps lossen it with out break the bolt off when just turning it.
 
So I'm under the car, oil pan off exposing bottom of engine. I've sprayed penetrating oil in all the joints in question. Is it safe to use a torch?
 
So I'm under the car, oil pan off exposing bottom of engine. I've sprayed penetrating oil in all the joints in question. Is it safe to use a torch?
I would try to avoid using a flame of any sort. I would try and hold a large hammer on one side and hit the head of the bolt or the collar in which the bolt is in to try and lossen it.
 
Never heard of one...I googled it and it looked promising...picked one up this morning from OReilly Auto Parts....worked like a charm....took 10 minutes to get 5 ball joints popped off. Wish I had known before spending 6 hours of misery! Thanks!
 
I feel really dumb asking this, but I'm stumped. I'm trying to reinstall the spindle connecting rod end, part #3289. The seal #3332 fits over the threaded stud. The stud goes through the spindle arm #3130 and is attached by a castle nut. But when I try to tighten the castle nut, the stud just spins inside the rod end. What am I missing?

Second question: when I took off the old spindle connecting rods, in addition to the rubber seal there were also metal slightly cone shaped "washers". My parts manual does not show these "washers" on the tie rods, only on the ball joints. Is this something I should replace or leave off?P1010002_01.JPG
 
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