'57 fender skirt gaskets

[Ward 57]

I've got some replacement seals and the originals ( among many other seals ) are stapled on. What is the best way to install the new ones as obviously I don't have an industrial stapler to attach.

 

[Baristadave]

I used hot melt glue gun on mine works fjne

 

[Lorne]

I used hot melt glue gun on mine works fjne

I used the staples that come with the seals and carefully matched the original holes in the skirt. Looks original and no messy clean up.

 

[CSPIDY]

I have been told you can do as Lorne has described and use a punch and hammer to knock the staple over.
I used an industrial contact glue for mine and have had no problems.
I usually remove mine every winter to clean and have had no problems with the glue giving way.

 

[JDJ]

I've got some replacement seals and the originals ( among many other seals ) are stapled on. What is the best way to install the new ones as obviously I don't have an industrial stapler to attach.

Use 3M adhesive. It’s sold by most Thunderbird parts suppliers like CASCO in Ohio. It is a contact adhesive . Start at top middle and apply adhesive to a few inches down on each side of center then continue down each side a few inches at a time ( or however distance you are comfortable doing. Look at your current rubber seals or another Thunderbir to see how far out they protrude and where they end.! Use painters tape to hold in place .

 

[Lorne]

I have been told you can do as Lorne has described and use a punch and hammer to knock the staple over.
I used an industrial contact glue for mine and have had no problems.
I usually remove mine every winter to clean and have had no problems with the glue giving way.

Hi, I did not use a hammer or punch, Just make sure you have backing on head of staple and they staple bend very easily with help of screwdriver. You could use weather strip adhessive if you want. My skirts fit good and wouldn’t get them in place if I used 3M tape. Too thick ,

 

[Ward 57]

Use 3M adhesive. It’s sold by most Thunderbird parts suppliers like CASCO in Ohio. It is a contact adhesive . Start at top middle and apply adhesive to a few inches down on each side of center then continue down each side a few inches at a time ( or however distance you are comfortable doing. Look at your current rubber seals or another Thunderbir to see how far out they protrude and where they end.! Use painters tape to hold in place .

I loaned my restoration manuals to a fellow who has a mustang restoration shop who just bought a neglected '55. I was able to replace the window whiskers on my door panel so I'm going to try the staple solution.
My question is, does the bead protrude or flush? This will be an indoor project While my bird is sitting in a freezing garage.

 

[56White]

Flush with the metal contour of the fender

 

[Ward 57]

I used hot melt glue gun on mine works fjne

Are they still holding up? Either I didn't get the staples with the gaskets or I lost them long ago And the originals are wider than the staple gun staples I used on the window whiskers. Sounds like a good alternative.

 

[56White]

A friend of mine used contact cement {trim adhesive} and attatched the mouldings to the fender instead of the skirt. They don't move when he removes the skirt and stay flush. Staples are not the best way to mount them, just fast at the factory during production.

 

[Ward 57]

I hot glued the gaskets to the skirts but now I have another problem. I can't latch the RR skirt as it's too tight. I was rear ended many years ago just enough to tighten the opening. I only need about 1/8" more travel on the latch but for the life of me I can't bend it. Really tough stuff. I don't know steel very well but would it do any harm to really heat it up to soften it?

 

[CSPIDY]

I hot glued the gaskets to the skirts but now I have another problem. I can't latch the RR skirt as it's too tight. I was rear ended many years ago just enough to tighten the opening. I only need about 1/8" more travel on the latch but for the life of me I can't bend it. Really tough stuff. I don't know steel very well but would it do any harm to really heat it up to soften it?

If you are referring to bending the arm by heating it, there would be no harm in that.
I use propane, heat it till it turns red in the spot you wish to bend it.

 

[Ward 57]

If you are referring to bending the arm by heating it, there would be no harm in that.
I use propane, heat it till it turns red in the spot you wish to bend it.

I watch forged in Fire all the time but I don't quite understand the tempering and the differences in steel and ruining the steel by doing it wrong. Got the torch & vice + a couple of doses of patience.

 

[CSPIDY]

I watch forged in Fire all the time but I don't quite understand the tempering and the differences in steel and ruining the steel by doing it wrong. Got the torch & vice + a couple of doses of patience.

If you let it air dry it will return to its untempered state, (if indeed it was tempered when manufactured) if you douse it with water or oil to cool it it will temper it.
For what you are doing I would use water to cool it. Either was you shouldn’t have any problems.

 

[Ward 57]

If you let it air dry it will return to its untempered state, (if indeed it was tempered when manufactured) if you douse it with water or oil to cool it it will temper it.
For what you are doing I would use water to cool it. Either was you shouldn’t have any problems.

You know, I think I won't temper it. It's more of a spring steel and should have some flex.