1957 T-Bird Distributor Removal | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models

  • NOW LIVE! **LIFETIME MEMBERSHIPS** Guest! You can upgrade your account today and unlock member only features of the site and remove all Google/Amazon ads! Click here to learn more. Thanks for supporting the club!

  • We're glad you found us via a search engine! Right now, you can join our club absolutely free and unlock member only features like the site search! This notice only appears once! It only takes 30 seconds to register, and we would love to have you as part of the World's largest Thunderbird Forum/Club! Click here to continue

  • Order your Thunderbird 4th of July shirts today! Click here to read more!.

1957 T-Bird Distributor Removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter RogerV
  • Start date Start date
RogerV

RogerV

Bronze Member
Reaction score
21
Thunderbird Year
1957
To remove the bracket that holds the passenger side bank of spark plug wires, I have to remove the distributor. Or at least lift it enough. Not having dealt with the Y-block, what issues will this cause? I know some other engines may cause it to end-up out of time or a shaft to drop into the pan, etc. I was going to replace the wires because they are old but have not had any problems with them.

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
Definitely will affect timing. Mark distributor so you'll know where it needs to be rotated to go back. Number 1 is at about 10 o'clock when viewed from the front of the engine.
Ive not had a shaft drop into the oil pan but I have had it come up and had to drop the oil pump to get the shaft lined back into the pump drive. I would try to get that bolt loose without removing the dizzy.
 
Hi,
I always remove the distributor cap and precisely mark exactly where the rotor is pointing to the distributor body. Next precisely mark the location of the bottom flange of the distributor to the engine block. Now you can loosen the hold down bolt and pick up on the distributor to remove it. Note that as you pull up on the distributor, the shaft is going to rotate a bit, Note this rotation, which is due to the drive gear because when you put the distributor back into the engine, you will have to rotate it so that your two marks line up when the distributor is down and in place. Using this method DO NOT rotate the engine while the distributor is out or you will have to retime it. Once the drive gear is engaged, you my have to "bump" the engine with the starter to get the oil pump drive shaft engaged, as per the comment above.
 
Douglemmo said:
Hi,
I always remove the distributor cap and precisely mark exactly where the rotor is pointing to the distributor body. Next precisely mark the location of the bottom flange of the distributor to the engine block. Now you can loosen the hold down bolt and pick up on the distributor to remove it. Note that as you pull up on the distributor, the shaft is going to rotate a bit, Note this rotation, which is due to the drive gear because when you put the distributor back into the engine, you will have to rotate it so that your two marks line up when the distributor is down and in place. Using this method DO NOT rotate the engine while the distributor is out or you will have to retime it. Once the drive gear is engaged, you my have to "bump" the engine with the starter to get the oil pump drive shaft engaged, as per the comment above.
Click to expand...
I was too chicken to bump the engine over with the oil pump shaft outta the pump. Kinda like start all fasteners by hand. If that's worked for you in the past I may try it. Can't remember the gap between engine block and distributor mount, but I recall I wasn't happy about it. Also if you have any trouble, set the engine to tdc on #1 check its power stroke (both valves closed) and ease the distributor in till your lined up with rotor button pointing at or just ahead of 10 o'clock. (Assuming you're set at that point now. ) (Ahead would be advance, or toward 12 o'clock) These distributors rotate counter clockwise as viewed from above.
 
Rogvh said:
To remove the bracket that holds the passenger side bank of spark plug wires, I have to remove the distributor. Or at least lift it enough. Not having dealt with the Y-block, what issues will this cause? I know some other engines may cause it to end-up out of time or a shaft to drop into the pan, etc. I was going to replace the wires because they are old but have not had any problems with them.
Click to expand...
Since the oil pump is external the oil pump drive can’t fall into the oil pan. Since the drive is attached to the oil pump as long as you don’t remove the oil pump the drive can’t drop down. Also, since there is a clip attached to the oil pump drive it can only be removed from the bottom after removing the oil pump.

(See attached oil pump drive)

I purchased my ignition wire set from CASCO and the wire set came with the attached instructions.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
15765_4ff1aae9b7224f9678df397788631048_1.jpg15765_4ff1aae9b7224f9678df397788631048_2.jpg15765_4ff1aae9b7224f9678df397788631048_3.jpg
 

Attachments

Last edited by a moderator:
doug7740 said:
Since the oil pump is external the oil pump drive can’t fall into the oil pan. Since the drive is attached to the oil pump as long as you don’t remove the oil pump the drive can’t drop down. Also, since there is a clip attached to the oil pump drive it can only be removed from the bottom after removing the oil pump.

(See attached oil pump drive)

I purchased my ignition wire set from CASCO and the wire set came with the attached instructions.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
View attachment 16004View attachment 16005View attachment 16006
Click to expand...
Guess mine is missing the clip. Or maybe I couldn't get it back on the shaft. I can't remember for sure. But did have to drop pump. Excellent write up and pictures Doug.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top