1957 starter to solenoid wire

valhalla 4771

valhalla 4771

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Thunderbird Year
1957
The wire on my 57 going from solenoid to starter is the usual black rubber sleeved until it gets down near the bottom of the engine. The last 12" or so the wire is encased with what looks like a close fitting rubber tube which is cinched every inch or so with what looks like small zip ties. Since my wire is cracked up near the solenoid I'm looking through catalogs for a replacement. Wires advertised as "exact reproduction" do not show this additional insulation at the starter motor end. If "correct" is without the additional insulation, is it advisable for a weekend driver?
 

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YES, just like mine, keep it away from exhaust heat
rich
 
valhalla 4771 said:
The wire on my 57 going from solenoid to starter is the usual black rubber sleeved until it gets down near the bottom of the engine. The last 12" or so the wire is encased with what looks like a close fitting rubber tube which is cinched every inch or so with what looks like small zip ties. Since my wire is cracked up near the solenoid I'm looking through catalogs for a replacement. Wires advertised as "exact reproduction" do not show this additional insulation at the starter motor end. If "correct" is without the additional insulation, is it advisable for a weekend driver?
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The zip tied section is not correct. You mention that the res of the wiring is cracked at the other end it is additional indicator that the zip tied section is a "kluge" by a previous owner. I might also mention that to the best of my knowledge zip ties did not exist in 1957 and if in existence certainly not in widespread use. I would advise buying one.
 
[Q
jack-in-sac said:
The zip tied section is not correct. You mention that the res of the wiring is cracked at the other end it is additional indicator that the zip tied section is a "kluge" by a previous owner. I might also mention that to the best of my knowledge zip ties did not exist in 1957 and if in existence certainly not in widespread use. I would advise buying one.
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Thanks. Any need to add extra protection to the wire at the starter end?
 
valhalla 4771 said:
[Q

Thanks. Any need to add extra protection to the wire at the starter end?
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The cable should be insulated for the run of the cable between the lugs on the cable. The ends of the cable will not be insulated although you can use dielectric grease on the ends if you wish.
 
Last year I found mine to have all the insulation split from the heat. It is in an area that can not be seen very easily.
When I changed mine I added some foil backed insulation for peace of mine.
 
CSPIDY said:
Last year I found mine to have all the insulation split from the heat. It is in an area that can not be seen very easily.
When I changed mine I added some foil backed insulation for peace of mine.
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Thanks...any idea how old your wire was before you replaced?
 
Ward 57 said:
You are overthinking this. The original design works well and correct cables are easy to get and not expensive.
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I heartily agree. When I hear hoof beats I look for horses, not Zebras. It could be Zebras but not likely
 
I think my solenoid is starting to go. I turn the key and can hear it click, The oil & gen lights dim slightly but nothing. I jumped the terminal with jumper cables and got it started so I know it's not the starter. It clicks in every gear not just neutral. After I did that, Got it back in the garage. Tested again and it worked. So I don't think it's the safety switch. Is one from NAPA good enough or should I go to one of the suppliers. How do you test the solenoid if it's becoming intermittent?
 
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I bought a solenoid for 66 falcon (4 post from local supplier, they work just fine) because they are priced less than mustang (For whatever reason).
Clicking in every gear sounds like your safety switch is not working properly and is closed all the time.
Battery have good voltage?
 
Tater Salad said:
I bought a solenoid for 66 falcon (4 post from local supplier, they work just fine) because they are priced less than mustang (For whatever reason).
Clicking in every gear sounds like your safety switch is not working properly and is closed all the time.
Battery have good voltage?
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Yup Battery is fine. I guess when it is acting up I can use a alligator clip jumper to the ign terminal on the solenoid to verify. Never had a solenoid go bad so I don't know the symptoms. Hope it's not the safety switch, a pain. More time off the road while I iron out all the nagging bugs to make it a reliable driver.
 
As for the safety switch, be careful you're not in gear, and ride it Ward. It's summer time.
 
Tater Salad said:
Solenoid is a $10 part. Replace it
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Well actually about $25-30 and because I can see a reaction in the red lights when turning the key in neutral I'm going that way. Some have said they keep one in the trunk as they can be temperamental and as far as I know it's close to if not original.
 
if you jump from the small starter terminal on the solenoid to to the battery does it start? Or did you jump from the battery to the large starter cable to start it. If you jumped from the small post then the solenoid may be good and the neutral switch may have a poor connection.
Also be sure to buy a quality starter solenoid. Too many of the overseas ones have poor contacts that arc and won't disengage.
 
Critterpainer said:
if you jump from the small starter terminal on the solenoid to to the battery does it start? Or did you jump from the battery to the large starter cable to start it. If you jumped from the small post then the solenoid may be good and the neutral switch may have a poor connection.
Also be sure to buy a quality starter solenoid. Too many of the overseas ones have poor contacts that arc and won't disengage.
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I just bought a new solenoid from NAPA, paid $3 extra for a quality one instead of the budget one. I didn't try jumping the starter post on the solenoid just the batt connection to the starter connection but Figured what the heck, I'm sure it's original or close to it. I'll replace it later tonight after I get off work at the Spokane Indians baseball stadium.
 
Tested it again and nothing but click. Replaced the solenoid this afternoon. Jumped in and ...click... Oh no, it's the safety switch. Looked down an saw I was still in park. Put it in neutral and it fired right up. Safety switch is working fine. Whew. as another plus , It's a NAPA part which I trust with electrical stuff and it's nice and shiny with the Echlin NAPA brand sticker on it, just ads some bling to the firewall.
 
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