1957 Power window removal

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Ward 57 said:
There is a pretty detailed description in the shop manual. Too much to go into on here. Not too difficult but time consuming.
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Thanks, but my 1957 Ford car and Thunderbird Shop manual does not describe what must be done to get the motor out. It does give a vague description of how to remove the glass and actuator, if all that is necessary.
 
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RD SHARP said:
Thanks, but my 1957 Ford car and Thunderbird Shop manual does not describe what must be done to get the motor out. It does give a vague description of how to remove the glass and actuator, if all that is necessary.
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The motor and lift mechanism come out in one piece. I pulled mine when I replaced a cracked window. The hardest thing was getting to the spring 'C' clips that hold the rollers on the window frame. Don't try to force them off, the originals were pressed steel and will deform, I ordered new ones which are machined and much more solid. The other was replacing the broken helper spring. That thing is powerful. While you are at it clean out the gear box and re-pack with white lithium grease. My window zips up and down now.
Make sure you take pictures of the connections on the switch or get a pad of wire labels so you can install them properly again when re-installing the door panel.
 
You can remove the motor without removing the mechanism. Remove the access panel you can see the motor at the bottom. There are two nuts that hold the motor to the mechanism. One is not easy to get to, but once you get them loosened a few threads, you should be able to get them of by hand Once the two nuts are removed, you need to separate the motor shaft from the drive coupling. It may be stuck but it will separate with a little tug. Once it is lose carefully remove the motor and disconnect the 4 wires by separating them at the bullet connectors. if you have the original or original style motor, just match up the colors to reconnect the motor. Be careful of the small cupped washers that go on both sides of the mounting flange, You can get the rubber grommets but the special washers are not available
 
Thanks, Did you get to the bottom nut without making the access hole bigger? I'm thinking that I may have to do that. I would rather not but I would rather do that than remove the window and try to readjust it after putting back.
 
In my opinion it is much easier removing the whole mechanism and work on a bench top. The window is not that difficult to remove. Question: why are you pulling the motor in the first place? Does it not work at all or just sluggish?
Whatever the reason the mechanism should be removed, cleaned and thoroughly greased with whit lithium grease. I have done it, doing it piecemeal will cause much more frustration. Refurbishing the whole thing on a bench is the way to go so you don't need to touch it again.
 
RD SHARP said:
Thanks, Did you get to the bottom nut without making the access hole bigger? I'm thinking that I may have to do that. I would rather not but I would rather do that than remove the window and try to readjust it after putting back.
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I do it by feel with a wrench and once I get the nut loose, I then take my fingers and spin it off by hand.

I also don't want to upset the rest of the user here and YES I agree that removing everything and lubricating it, replacing the window runs, front and rear, taking the mechanism out and lubricating it, also taking out the door latches, lubricating them, etc, etc is a good idea, but his question was about removing the motor. YES it can be removed without taking out the entire window mechanism.

ALSO, you may want to rethink white lithium grease. If you notice, the factory used white lithium and it has likely hardened solid and is not easy to remove. I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease, it comes in a 1 pound tub and is red in color. I quit using white lithium.
 
cokefirst said:
I do it by feel with a wrench and once I get the nut loose, I then take my fingers and spin it off by hand.

I also don't want to upset the rest of the user here and YES I agree that removing everything and lubricating it, replacing the window runs, front and rear, taking the mechanism out and lubricating it, also taking out the door latches, lubricating them, etc, etc is a good idea, but his question was about removing the motor. YES it can be removed without taking out the entire window mechanism.

ALSO, you may want to rethink white lithium grease. If you notice, the factory used white lithium and it has likely hardened solid and is not easy to remove. I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease, it comes in a 1 pound tub and is red in color. I quit using white lithium.
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Never heard of issues with white Lithium and I disagree with that is what they used at the factory. Black is all they had at the time, but good grease is the solution which ever you choose. refurbishing the whole works while you have the chance is the way to go. You won't regret it.
 
Ward 57 said:
Never heard of issues with white Lithium and I disagree with that is what they used at the factory. Black is all they had at the time, but good grease is the solution which ever you choose. refurbishing the whole works while you have the chance is the way to go. You won't regret it.
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White lithium was patented in 1950. It was sold as "Brake Grease" by several commercial lubricant manufacturers and was used to lubricate the wear pads where the sides of the brake shoes come in contact with the backing plate. Interesting that you say you have never heard of white lithium hardening, see "1956 Window mechanism lubrication" in this forum that was posted today.
 
cokefirst said:
I do it by feel with a wrench and once I get the nut loose, I then take my fingers and spin it off by hand.

I also don't want to upset the rest of the user here and YES I agree that removing everything and lubricating it, replacing the window runs, front and rear, taking the mechanism out and lubricating it, also taking out the door latches, lubricating them, etc, etc is a good idea, but his question was about removing the motor. YES it can be removed without taking out the entire window mechanism.

ALSO, you may want to rethink white lithium grease. If you notice, the factory used white lithium and it has likely hardened solid and is not easy to remove. I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease, it comes in a 1 pound tub and is red in color. I quit using white lithium.
Click to expand...
I agree on not using lithium. I have seen several posts that indicate that it hardens up after time.
 
I used white lithium as it should last another 60yrs. I think any grease would harden over time but from what I understand White lithium hardens at a much slower rate.
 
cokefirst said:
You can remove the motor without removing the mechanism. Remove the access panel you can see the motor at the bottom. There are two nuts that hold the motor to the mechanism. One is not easy to get to, but once you get them loosened a few threads, you should be able to get them of by hand Once the two nuts are removed, you need to separate the motor shaft from the drive coupling. It may be stuck but it will separate with a little tug. Once it is lose carefully remove the motor and disconnect the 4 wires by separating them at the bullet connectors. if you have the original or original style motor, just match up the colors to reconnect the motor. Be careful of the small cupped washers that go on both sides of the mounting flange, You can get the rubber grommets but the special washers are not available
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I inherited my dads 55 Tbird and there is no manual. Star wheel on the driver door no longer latches. It just spins. As this is all new to me could someone give quick instructions on how to remove the interior access panel so I can get a look at it? Thanks!
 
It sounds like you have a bad door latch mechanism. To remove. you will need to take off the door panel and remove the door access plate that is on the door under the door panel. Once you get that far, you need to remove the screws for the latch that are in the door jamb. You also need to remove the door lock knob that goes through the garnish molding at the top of the door and disconnect the interior door handle transfer mechanism from the door (three screws). Once you get it out of the door, clan and inspect, it could be a broken spring in the mechanism or it could be just gummed up. Some of the supply houses sell rebuilt latches. I do not think new ones are available. This job is a little tricky as there is little room to work inside the door.
 
Removing the inside panel is the issue I have. I don’t know how to remove it and don’t want to damage anything. Does anyone have info on how to remove the interior door panel to access inside the door?
 
Dads55 said:
Removing the inside panel is the issue I have. I don’t know how to remove it and don’t want to damage anything. Does anyone have info on how to remove the interior door panel to access inside the door?
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Are to talking about the cardboard door card? it's pretty easy. the hardest part is removing the door handle and window crank if applicable. There is a spring 'C' clip holding them onto the shaft. They can be pushed off from the handle side with a special tool ( inexpensive ) or a small straight blade screwdriver. Keep an eye out for that clip if it pops all the way off, You don't need to remove it that far, just enough to release the handle.
Then unscrew the lock button, remove the two screws holding the top door cover and lift it off. The panel is held in place with spring clips around the perimeter and maybe a screw in the bottom rear corner.
 
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