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I just had the brakes bled and adjusted this spring. A few years ago cleaned out the master and bled it. The system is full of newer fluid. Just want to eliminate more air than needed.One question you might ask yourself is: When was the last time I bled these brakes and rplaced the old fluid with new clean fluid?
Don't quite capture your methodology. more tinkering than I want to do. All I want to do is to not introduce air to the system that I can't bleed at the booster and not the whole system once I re-install it. Not planning on driving it until then. Have to rebuild the Turn signal cancelling system while it's out.Can you get a union to couple the two disconnected lines together? Have someone slowly depress the brake pedal while tightening the lines. If you then cap the vacuum line you can still safely drive the car,
Good Idea about the caps. Have a couple on my work bench left over from other projects. Others may look at our parts as debris, But we know we'll find a use. Just like your fitting for your fuel line to the pump. A simple 'L' fitting you had in stock. I'll just plop them on the ends of the lines off of the booster. I have an early '57 model where the vacuum line is a rubber hose from the manifold.
I'm going to remove my brake booster for rebuild. It's not doing anything.
Anything I should know other than the shop manual? I don't want to have to bleed the whole system when done. If I keep the lines I take off and just keep them up so they don't take in air, can just bleed it at the booster?
Just what I needed to know. So you had no problem bleeding the line from the booster to the frame from the booster? Mine's crusty and stiff and planning on buying that line for re-install especially if it begins to fail on cracking it open. Thanks.You should be able to. I pulled the booster to rebuild it and also replaced the master cylinder and all the lines from "up top" down to the fitting on the frame. I bench bled the MC and used the bleeder screw on the booster to bleed it. Didn't touch the rest of the system and it pumped up fine.
Just what I needed to know. So you had no problem bleeding the line from the booster to the frame from the booster? Mine's crusty and stiff and planning on buying that line for re-install especially if it begins to fail on cracking it open. Thanks.
Excellent. just didn't want to bleed the whole system again and asking the wife to work the pedal more than needed. I'll fill the line once the lower connection is made (slowly) and burp it. If I touch it I know the effects go downline. Ever replaced a sink drain? It's never just the waste line from the sink.I did not specifically bleed the line from the booster to the frame but I had to replace the block because the previous owner jammed the wrong sized fitting into it and ruined the threads for reuse. So all the lines at the block were disconnected at one point. Plus I wound up replacing the brake light switch that is on it (and the new one failed to work right so I went to a mechanical switch under the dash). Air in the system will rise to the level of the booster in a fairly short time if any gets in those parts and then you can bleed it out of the booster if it comes to that.