1957 Blower motor thrust movement

[knuckle47]

I have a noisy blower motor so upon removal I see that the motor shaft can easily move 3/16” in and out of the motor case. Does anyone know what the normal thrust should be before it is deemed too much.

The squirrel cage is giving me a very hard time trying to remove it. I would like to get a look inside and see what I might do to to reduce that movement. I sprayed the set screw, heated it and used excessive force on the allen screw and even switched to all steel t-handle in order to break it loose and take the squirrel cage off but nothing.

If the thrust is huge, I’ll replace the entire assembly… any ideas?

 

[knuckle47]

So here is an update: cheapest way through this is cut the squirrel cage off and replace it if the motor is serviceable. If the motor is bad either way, I need to replace it and the squirrel cage that is frozen on the shaft anyway.
Turns out, the armature IS moving around in the case and the entire shaft is randomly sliding in and out

Ordered a new motor and squirrel cage, next problem!

 

[doug7740]

I didn't get a chance until today to measure the end play on one of the blower motors that I repaired.

As you can see by the pictures below the end play on this blower motor is 0,015".

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[knuckle47]

So mine is seriously off. I will eventually get to repairing the original motor but in the mean time, a fresh replacement for spring will be a welcome addition. I can’t wait for one of those 50 degree sunny days to go take a ride with the top down and the HEAT on ! Lately it seems that it has been unusually cold. Of course it is February in the north east and I am 10 years older.

 

[knuckle47]

The new CASCO motor and squirrel cage came today and there is a monster difference in the armature shaft movement….and it is silent. One thing impresses me on the old cage, it has a 1/8 Allen screw and it is frozen in place. I took a 12” long t-handle to un-freeze it but it will not move. It also DID NOT STRIP the inside. So many of these little cheap set screws have just sheared inside over the last 20 years of using them. Ford used some quality stuff !

 

[Ward 57]

The new CASCO motor and squirrel cage came today and there is a monster difference in the armature shaft movement….and it is silent. One thing impresses me on the old cage, it has a 1/8 Allen screw and it is frozen in place. I took a 12” long t-handle to un-freeze it but it will not move. It also DID NOT STRIP the inside. So many of these little cheap set screws have just sheared inside over the last 20 years of using them. Ford used some quality stuff !

Did you ever get that set screw loose or did you give up? I have that issue with two of my rear top latch handles. One on the hard top and one on the soft top have broken return springs. I need to remove the handle and the cover plate to get to them. I've introduced some penetrating oil ( PB Blaster ) let it sit for weeks and still didn't budge. So you think I can exercise more force without stripping the inside of the set screw. I don't want to use heat other than a heat gun so close to the glass and seals. Only other option is to drill it out and replace the destroyed parts or just live with it.

 

[knuckle47]

@Ward 57 I did the same as you, with PB blaster. I navy friend years back swears by transmission fluid mixed with diesel fuel so I mixed a teaspoon of each and let it sit for a week. The t-handle is all steel and about 9” long but twists torsionally with the forces applied. It’s the only thing that will fit between the vanes of the squirrel cage or I would try a socket Allen set. Since I am ready to sacrifice the squirrel cage anyway, I will cut away enough of the vanes to get the socket key in there and get back to you.

Since the new motor, rubber donut, mounting plate, and cage came so quickly… I installed it and let the entire assembly sit the last 2 weeks

 

[knuckle47]

@Ward 57 UPDATE: tried the T-handle one more time after using the transmission/fuel mix sitting for 5 days and …..

STRIPPED THE INSIDE OF THE SET SCREW.

I don’t mind sacrificing the cage fan but I’ll try drilling the screw out prior to cutting up the vanes. I mean, it’s here, it’s good and it’s original