1956 Window mechanism lubrication

L

lichau

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Gold Member
Last seen
Joined
Oct 17, 2022
Thunderbird Year
1956
I bought this 1956 Tbird in 1972 from a kid that had taken it apart and couldn't get it back together. (I was 28. didn't consider myself a "kid"; time changes perspective.) Put it together, wife drove it for a few years. Then, late -70's, I did a frame off restoration. Over the years, I have fixed a lot of stuff. The window mechanisms are in bad shape. The last time I did it, I lubed the regulator, scissors, etc. with white lithium grease. Probably 40 years ago.
Now, the driver's side door has failed, once again. Have the door off, completely stripped down. The white lithium seems to have dried out, very stiff and probably part of the problem. In addition to time and neglect.
I am 78. I don't expect to be rebuilding this door in another 40 years. But, I would really like not to do it again. Yes, I know there is access, but getting the door handles and panel off always seems a big PITA.
Any thoughts on the best product? I am wondering about the lubricants designed for garage doors?

Thanks
 

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lichau said:
I bought this 1956 Tbird in 1972 from a kid that had taken it apart and couldn't get it back together. (I was 28. didn't consider myself a "kid"; time changes perspective.) Put it together, wife drove it for a few years. Then, late -70's, I did a frame off restoration. Over the years, I have fixed a lot of stuff. The window mechanisms are in bad shape. The last time I did it, I lubed the regulator, scissors, etc. with white lithium grease. Probably 40 years ago.
Now, the driver's side door has failed, once again. Have the door off, completely stripped down. The white lithium seems to have dried out, very stiff and probably part of the problem. In addition to time and neglect.
I am 78. I don't expect to be rebuilding this door in another 40 years. But, I would really like not to do it again. Yes, I know there is access, but getting the door handles and panel off always seems a big PITA.
Any thoughts on the best product? I am wondering about the lubricants designed for garage doors?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Anticize. It's messy so keep it off your hands and any vehicle interior!
 
lichau said:
I bought this 1956 Tbird in 1972 from a kid that had taken it apart and couldn't get it back together. (I was 28. didn't consider myself a "kid"; time changes perspective.) Put it together, wife drove it for a few years. Then, late -70's, I did a frame off restoration. Over the years, I have fixed a lot of stuff. The window mechanisms are in bad shape. The last time I did it, I lubed the regulator, scissors, etc. with white lithium grease. Probably 40 years ago.
Now, the driver's side door has failed, once again. Have the door off, completely stripped down. The white lithium seems to have dried out, very stiff and probably part of the problem. In addition to time and neglect.
I am 78. I don't expect to be rebuilding this door in another 40 years. But, I would really like not to do it again. Yes, I know there is access, but getting the door handles and panel off always seems a big PITA.
Any thoughts on the best product? I am wondering about the lubricants designed for garage doors?

Thanks
Click to expand...
I did this procedure for a cracked passenger window. The general garage door lube is not enough it's basically for the rollers. I tried it on my worm gear drive with no luck keeping it quiet the white lithium did the trick. CASCO and others sell a fork type tool to get the door handle off. You slip it in from the handle side and it releases the spring clip that holds the handle on. easy peasy.
 
I have the CASCO tool but when I was in harbor freight, they had an assortment of 3 for like $7.00? And the tool I have is identical to one in the package. If you’re in a hurry…I also put a bandaid on the side that rubs the aluminum door trim to prevent scratches
 
I just stripped the power window mechanism and all the associated parts from both doors of my 1956 Thunderbird. I too found that the white lithium that had been used previously (at least prior to 1974 (as that is when I bought the car) hardened to a solid and was very difficult to clean off the metal parts even using brake cleaner, mineral spirits, carburetor cleaner etc did not cut it. I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease. It is red in color and I used it on the internal gears of the window regulator as well as the metal window rollers and slides. Based on what I read, it should not cake and harden like the lithium tends to. There may be others who have other views and you may want to make your own study and determine what to use. I am 74, so I am not far behind you.
 
Is your problem that the power window does not operate? If so, 9 times out of 10 the problem is either with the motor.
 
cokefirst said:
I just stripped the power window mechanism and all the associated parts from both doors of my 1956 Thunderbird. I too found that the white lithium that had been used previously (at least prior to 1974 (as that is when I bought the car) hardened to a solid and was very difficult to clean off the metal parts even using brake cleaner, mineral spirits, carburetor cleaner etc did not cut it. I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease. It is red in color and I used it on the internal gears of the window regulator as well as the metal window rollers and slides. Based on what I read, it should not cake and harden like the lithium tends to. There may be others who have other views and you may want to make your own study and determine what to use. I am 74, so I am not far behind you.
Click to expand...
I had essentially the same experience with the lithium grease. It was nothing close to lubricant, caked, difficult to get out. Granted, it had been in there for 40+ years.
I think I am going with Mobile 1. zeroroadkill's suggestion of antiseize is intriguing. I use it, but it is messy.

I will let you know how it worked out 40 years from now. <grin>.
Thanks.
 
zeroroadkill said:
Anticize. It's messy so keep it off your hands and any vehicle interior!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the suggestion. I use antiseize a lot, it is messy, for sure. I think I am going with Mobile 1.
 
zeroroadkill said:
View attachment 25043
Click to expand...
Bought one of these tools, not from CASCO. It took one handle off, fine. The other it wouldn't engage the clip. (The clip was bent, probably long ago). Ended up having to grind off the handle. It was getting replaced in any case.
There are things I have phobias about. One is removing door panels. Either I can't get them off (this case) or I can't get them back on right. (That is next).
My lady friend has a 1946 Mercury convertible that has sat in a shed for 10-15 years. In remarkably good shape, I have it running and drivable. But--it has a stuck window. !@#$%^. Hate the things.

Thanks for the help.
 
lichau said:
Bought one of these tools, not from CASCO. It took one handle off, fine. The other it wouldn't engage the clip. (The clip was bent, probably long ago). Ended up having to grind off the handle. It was getting replaced in any case.
There are things I have phobias about. One is removing door panels. Either I can't get them off (this case) or I can't get them back on right. (That is next).
My lady friend has a 1946 Mercury convertible that has sat in a shed for 10-15 years. In remarkably good shape, I have it running and drivable. But--it has a stuck window. !@#$%^. Hate the things.

Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
The worst part of getting the panels on are the spring clips on the perimeter. Trial & error getting them lined up properly and also I've seen a factory screw in the lower rear corner to keep them from sliding back or forth. Discovered both when I last replaced my panel it slid back and jammed the door shut. Minor adjustment but learned my lesson.
 
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