G
- Last seen
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2021
- Thunderbird Year
- 1956
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I sent my 55 box to Redhead Steering Gears to be rebuilt. The cost, excluding shipping, was less than $300. Fast turnaround, and I am pleased with the results. If you ship yours, make sure it's insured for the core value.1956 Steering Wheel Play is quite loose. Already tried the adjuster screw. Not much improvement. I have seen parts in catalogues to rebuild steering box. Would prefer to buy a new or rebuilt steering box. Does anyone have ideas on where I can get this work done or where i can buy a new box?
Half the fun of owing a classic car is doing the work yourself.I sent my 55 box to Redhead Steering Gears to be rebuilt. The cost, excluding shipping, was less than $300. Fast turnaround, and I am pleased with the results. If you ship yours, make sure it's insured for the core value.
Are you running with bias ply tires? Try switching to radial plys. It made a huge difference on my 64, it now drives like a modern car! No more wandering all over the road.When driving, the steering needs constant slight correction to stay in the lane.
Have replaced steering box, all tie rods, bushings, bits and parts like new, nothing loose.
Adjusted power steering valve, replaced shocks and springs, lowered front end 2” from stock.
Alignment specs maxed out due to lowering, at 0.5° caster, camber @ +.25°, toe in @ 1/8”.
Wheels balanced, radial tires.
New shocks and springs on rear @ stock height.
All shocks are bilstein gas.
Rear sway bar in place.
Question is, why does this still wander so much?
Requires constant course corrections.
Frame is straight.
Looking at your alignment settings, it looks like the lower caster setting is the cause of your steering needing a constant slight correction to stay in the lane. Negative caster causes the wheels to follow the irregular surfaces of the road. Positive caster makes front wheels travel straight ahead. If you change the caster setting more towards the 1.5 degree specification, while keeping camber at 0.25° and toe at 1/16”, I’m sure that will correct your needing a constant slight correction to stay in the lane.When driving, the steering needs constant slight correction to stay in the lane.
Have replaced steering box, all tie rods, bushings, bits and parts like new, nothing loose.
Adjusted power steering valve, replaced shocks and springs, lowered front end 2” from stock.
Alignment specs maxed out due to lowering, at 0.5° caster, camber @ +.25°, toe in @ 1/8”.
Wheels balanced, radial tires.
New shocks and springs on rear @ stock height.
All shocks are bilstein gas.
Rear sway bar in place.
Question is, why does this still wander so much?
Requires constant course corrections.
Frame is straight.