1955 drive shaft play

JRH

JRH

Active Member
Last seen
Joined
Jul 1, 2022
Thunderbird Year
1955
Can anybody have a idea how much a drive shaft turns (back and forth) while turning by hand? I was under the car today 7/16 and grabbed the drive shaft and it seems to me it was excessive. Thanks in advance!
 

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It’s likely the play is not in the driveshaft but the differential. I don’t know what ring and pinion clearance would translate to “excessive” movement but I suspect that unless you’re hearing clunking (U-joints) or whining from the rear end, probably all is good.
Thoughts from others?
 
Well, it really depends on which parts are worn. You can run a loose gear set for years without major issues. However more than likely you have wear in the spider gears, and probably in the splines on the axle shafts themselves. A half inch is a lot of play. But if it is not making any noise chalk it up to being an old car.
 
No serious noise it probably rolls a good inch or so. I thought that might cause the hard shift I get. All OK while I'm driving it.
 
Take a closer look as to where the "slop" is. Is it the universals or the rear end. Could be in the trans too.
 
No serious noise it probably rolls a good inch or so. I thought that might cause the hard shift I get. All OK while I'm driving it.
Yup, just a well worn differential. How many miles on it? I have about 135K but no issues or clunks. Did replace a 'U' joint sometime in the past.
 
That could be a big contributor to your hard shift.
With that much play when you do decide to get in there be ready to replace a majority of the smaller parts and probably the axles too. I have been this route before.
 
That could be a big contributor to your hard shift.
With that much play when you do decide to get in there be ready to replace a majority of the smaller parts and probably the axles too. I have been this route before.
I don't think the axles are in order unless the end bearings scored the drive shafts. Just find a shop that specializes in rear ands and get their opinion.
 
What I have run across is when you have enough wear to start clunking or hard engagement into gear it starts beating on the splines. I have replaced more than one set of axles on old cars...
 
Still on jack stands taking care of the N safety switch and trans seal. Switch that wasn't hooked up after wresling that back in tested and low and behold it's shot. it's tough working on jack stands!!!
 
Odometer says 29k but who knows when that died. Speedo don't work either. Going to rewire and will check when in the process.Haven't ran the car sense my dad passed 20 years ago (was his car) got it dialed in as far as the engine. It's like plumbing one thing always leads to another.
 
While you have it on stands pull the speedometer cable out of the tail shaft and check the gear. Cable itself could also be bad.
 
The speedometer has two main parts, the speedometer head and the speedometer drive cable. When the speedometer fails to indicate speed or mileage, the cable may be broken. Most cables break due to a lack of lubrication or a bend or kink in the housing. The cable also might break when the speedometer head mechanism binds. A jumpy pointer, along with a scraping noise, is often caused by a dry or kinked speedometer cable. The kinked cable rubs on the housing and winds up slowing down the pointer. The cable then unwinds, and the pointer jumps.

To lubricate the cable and check for kinks, the cable will have to be removed from the housing. It is not necessary to remove the housing from the vehicle. From under the dash, disconnect the housing by its fluted nut from the back side of the speedometer head. Prior to removing the cable from the housing, cover the carpet and upholstery, as the common lubricant is graphite which will really make a mess to whatever it touches. Using a long nose pliers pull on the cable while supporting the housing. The cable should come out fairly easily unless there is a crimp somewhere in the housing, which could be the cause of the problem by itself.

With the cable fully withdrawn and out of the car, inspect the outer surface of the core for flat and shiny areas. These indicate wear areas and you can use their position to approximate the area of the housing that may have an excessive bend or kink. To check for kinks, lay the cable on a flat surface and twist one end with your fingers. If it turns over smoothly, the cable is not kinked. But, if part of the cable flops over as it’s twisted, the cable is kinked and should be replaced.

Before reinstalling the cable back into the housing wipe it down with a clean absorbent cloth and re-lubricate it with a graphite bearing lubricant. Then feed and twist the cable back into the housing. The last 3/8” to 1/4” will require twisting and pushing to engage the square drive at the far end of the cable.

Before re-connecting the cable housing to the back of the speedometer head, put a few drops of lubricant on the wick through the hole in the speedometer head. I had a hard time doing this so I removed the speedometer head from the dash. The speedometer can be removed from the back of the head on a 1957 model, so you do not have to remove the entire head.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Back of the Speedometer.jpg

The lubrication wick hole.jpg
 
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