2002 draining battery at night

Thank you for your input Frankie the Fink. However, I found a different cause for the current draw - the battery itself. After checking all the circuits by the accepted method, I finally disconnected the battery from the vehicle and measured 4.95 amps across the battery terminals; at the same time the battery was registering a steady 12.7 vdc. Again, I don’t know how this can be - a small internal short capable of discharging a battery down to 3vdc overnight?
 

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OK - but that makes no sense to me, nearly 5 amps is a lot of current, most home auto full-size battery chargers (not the trickle/mainenance charters) have only 6 amps charging rate after the stabilize., and usually less.
 
Threebird said:
Don't know if this has already been discussed...my battery on my 2002 retrobird is draining while in the garage...no lights remain on except the red blinking diode on the dash...doors trunk and hood are all closed...it doesn't make any sounds. Is there a switch somewhere that has notoriously been draining batteries or is this something new.
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Hey @Threebird ,I had the same issues a few months ago. I can tell you that after a few months of troubleshooting and with no real indication I replaced my driver's side door-ajar-switch and it cured the problem. It wasn't very expensive or hard to install. I located installation instructions on the net. Hope this helps, I feel your pain!
 
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DirtyBird said:
Hey @Threebird ,I had the same issues a few months ago. I can tell you that after a few months of troubleshooting and with no real indication I replaced my driver's side door-ajar-switch and it cured the problem. It wasn't very expensive or hard to install. I located installation instructions on the net. Hope this helps, I feel your pain!
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This information is helpful to the topic in general but keep in mind the dates when something was posted. If you hover over @Threebird's name you will also see they have not been on the forum since 2019.

threebird.jpg
 
I have a 2002 convertible T-Bird that something keeps draining the battery. Mechanics are unable to find source of the drain. Anyone else have a similar issue? Any suggestions?
 
kasmith said:
I recently had the same problem and found that my map light was remaining on. Several others had had the same problem, and recommended dialing down the dashboard lights and the time that they remain on after the car was parked.
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My 02 bird is doing exact same thing now. I drove car and parked in garage later that day. I went out to garage and saw the map lights were on. I pushed the switches to turn them off but they would not go out. I pulled the fuse and thought I was aok. I charged battery and two days later the battery is dead again. I have gone thru this twice and no luck. The switche on mirror won’t turn lights out. It seems they miss a step. They go off if you hold the switch at that spot but I can’t do that. I disconnected the battery and reconnected and it started. But it goes dead when you leave it connected.
I have new battery. Everything works when it’s connected. But goes dead in a couple days. The light delay switch is turned on to second dot so it goes out after a few seconds. But not now.
Do I look for new mirror or take this one apart ? I’m guessing switches are bad and there’s the drain. Just guessing. Any suggestions or thoughts appreciated.
Thanks
Earl
 
Myblack02! said:
My 02 bird is doing exact same thing now. I drove car and parked in garage later that day. I went out to garage and saw the map lights were on. I pushed the switches to turn them off but they would not go out. I pulled the fuse and thought I was aok. I charged battery and two days later the battery is dead again. I have gone thru this twice and no luck. The switche on mirror won’t turn lights out. It seems they miss a step. They go off if you hold the switch at that spot but I can’t do that. I disconnected the battery and reconnected and it started. But it goes dead when you leave it connected.
I have new battery. Everything works when it’s connected. But goes dead in a couple days. The light delay switch is turned on to second dot so it goes out after a few seconds. But not now.
Do I look for new mirror or take this one apart ? I’m guessing switches are bad and there’s the drain. Just guessing. Any suggestions or thoughts appreciated.
Thanks
Earl
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In troubleshooting a battery drain issue, I noticed this behavior when the car thinks the door is open. If you close the doors, reach in and turn the key to on - is the door ajar light on? If so, then one of the door ajar switches is failing and the internal map light will not go out. That's how it's supposed to work. This might not be the issue, but I found it along the way...
 
I've been chasing a parasitic power drain of about .33 amp for a couple of weeks (part time). So I have now systematically removed ALL fuses except for fuses 23,24,27,32 (SSP fuses) and 25 (P-JB) fuse in the rpdb. Removing any of these make the draw increase (under 1a) and when replaced it goes back to .33 in less than a minute.

Diagnosed with OBD (Forscan) and got the following codes:

1. P1000 = PCM (even after driving it around for an hour) OBD systems readiness test not complete. Possible Powertrain Control Module failure. (covered by fuse 18 in the fpdb - pulled, no impact to amp draw.

2. B1830 = GEM (Lock switch unlock switch circuit) - door unlock disarm switch circuit failure 419-01a pinpoint test b shows the issue - the switch is dead, the anti-theft won't disarm with driver side key unlock. Unfortunately this part seems almost impossible to get, so I'll probably have to remove the panel and disconnect it to see any impact. covered by fuse 2.30 (passenger compartment) - pulled, no impact to amp draw.

3. B1242 = EATC (Air flow recirc door driver circuit failure) - seems to work when I test it manually with
continuous DTC - switch works, servo % changes, etc. but the inside temperature on continuous DTC shows 20 degrees higher than the outside even with the top down. So it looks like a bad temperature sensor. Can't find a fuse to cover the EATC but DATC covered by 2.30, 2.29 no impact to amp draw when pulled

4. Happenstance - I found the side mirror adjustment switch doesn't work for either side, have to replace. covered by fuse 2.34, no impact to amp draw

I'm almost resigned to getting a replacement REM, but it would be nice if there was a way to diagnose the amp draw with no fuses except rpdb 23,24,25,27 and 32. It's a pretty spendy what-if though.

Any other suggestions when a normal parasitic draw fuse test fails to show anything?
 
Threebird said:
Don't know if this has already been discussed...my battery on my 2002 retrobird is draining while in the garage...no lights remain on except the red blinking diode on the dash...doors trunk and hood are all closed...it doesn't make any sounds. Is there a switch somewhere that has notoriously been draining batteries or is this something new.
Click to expand...
We had the same issue, it was the Radio Amp in the truck, removed and it stopped right away, found a used one on Ebay, loud and clear now
 
DTC code GEM B1830 pointed to the perimeter alarm system door unlock switch - I took off the panel, unplugged the switch and my draw went from .33 to .03. Unfortunately the switch is a component of the driver's side door wiring harness, so it may be difficult to replace.

But detective work done!
 
Is there a common problem with 2002 Tbirds? I pulled all the night lights in the trunk and cabin, but something is draining the battery if I leave it for four weeks or more. It is fine if I use it every other day, but not if it sits. Any others having this problem? Thanks.
 
Threebird said:
Don't know if this has already been discussed...my battery on my 2002 retrobird is draining while in the garage...no lights remain on except the red blinking diode on the dash...doors trunk and hood are all closed...it doesn't make any sounds. Is there a switch somewhere that has notoriously been draining batteries or is this something new.
Click to expand...
Did you know if you leave the keys in the ignition, keys off just in the key slot, it will drain the battery.
 
M. House said:
Did you know if you leave the keys in the ignition, keys off just in the key slot, it will drain the battery.
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When you leave the key in the ignition, even with the key in the off position, the key warning switch sensor in the ignition switch is still active. When active, the microprocesser instrument cluster will not allow the instrument cluster to go into sleep mode. That's why when you remove the key from the ignition switch the steering column will tilt all the way up and in.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Cluster.jpg
 
This is kind of a no-brainer, but I had a new battery bleed down also. I didn't realize the lighter and accessory sockets stay hot when the car is off. With my other cars they turn off immediately or after a delay. I had a USB charger plugged into the accessory outlet, but I didn't have a cord or phone connected so I just forgot about it. Evidently the charger stayed on (and may have even had a small LED burning). With that unplugged I've had no more problems.

Again, I recognize other are having more complicated issues. Just wanted to share this observation.
 
My battery in my bird drains to zero about every 4 days if cables are hooked up. I installed battery disconnect to potentially slow it down until I could find the problem. I cannot find anything except interior lights in rear view mirror that stay on intermittently. Don’t know if that’s the culprit but help is needed. Anyone have similar issues let me know what to do.
Thanks
Black02
 
Interesting, did you pull the bulbs to check? Otherwise put a clamp on ammeter on a battery cable to see the current draw and pull fuses till you find the culprit.
 
I’m selling car tomorrow. Just want to give guy a heads up on possible faults. He is aware of problem. The battery disconnect keeps juice in battery and have had powered up battery for over a year if I disconnect it. Car isn’t driven in winter thus need for disconnect. I’ll check light switch and see what works.
 
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