New owner 1957-engine oil/fluid

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CHAMBERS777

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Mar 10, 2020
Thunderbird Year
1957
Hi there, greetings from Scotland. I have recently took ownership of a 1957 Thunderbird with the 312, car was in Florida and was restored from the ground up 8 years ago, 2000 miles have been done since. I know this is a much debated topic but threads I have seen are a few years old now. Regarding engine oil what’s the recommendations with this, previous owner said he ran standard pennzoil 10w 30 with a ZDDP additive, the car doesn’t leak a dime from anywhere right now, it drives smooth and quiet. Temperatures in Scotland rarely get above the 70/75 mark in summer so nowhere near what he was driving it in Florida. Should I continue with the same product or is it worth changing?

Also for flushing out the radiator/cooling system is any good prestone with a 50/50 blend with water do the trick? I’ve ordered the shop manual so I am sure the details will be there but regarding transmission and power steering servicing intervals how long should I give it before changing? I am going to bleed the brakes as previous owner said he hasn’t done since he got it from the restorer, DOT 3 I’ll use in that.

Any other recommendations or advice with this topic is much appreciate, thanks for your time.

Regards
Chris
 

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I recommend synthetic oil. To me this is a no brainer: better lubrication, more HP, less wear on the engine. I run Mobil 15W-50 synthetic in my '64 and nary a leak from the 390. A few years ago, Mustangs and 5.0 magazine provided before and after dyno results for a 5.0 engine converted to regular to synthetic oil and documented a 5 HP rear wheel increase with synthetic.
 
CHAMBERS777 said:
Hi there, greetings from Scotland. I have recently took ownership of a 1957 Thunderbird with the 312, car was in Florida and was restored from the ground up 8 years ago, 2000 miles have been done since. I know this is a much debated topic but threads I have seen are a few years old now. Regarding engine oil what’s the recommendations with this, previous owner said he ran standard pennzoil 10w 30 with a ZDDP additive, the car doesn’t leak a dime from anywhere right now, it drives smooth and quiet. Temperatures in Scotland rarely get above the 70/75 mark in summer so nowhere near what he was driving it in Florida. Should I continue with the same product or is it worth changing?

Also for flushing out the radiator/cooling system is any good prestone with a 50/50 blend with water do the trick? I’ve ordered the shop manual so I am sure the details will be there but regarding transmission and power steering servicing intervals how long should I give it before changing? I am going to bleed the brakes as previous owner said he hasn’t done since he got it from the restorer, DOT 3 I’ll use in that.

Any other recommendations or advice with this topic is much appreciate, thanks for your time.

Regards
Chris
Click to expand...
I too recommend using Shell rotella 15-40. I use it due to the lack of zinc in modern oil that aids in not hammering your valves and seats. If you have had hardened valve seats installed you will have no problem with virtually quality motor oil. I don't worry about wringing every last bit of power from my '57 Bird. In fact I set the valves at 20 rather than factory recommended 19. I do re-adjust the valve at the beginning of each driving season. I use a P&G Valve Gapper. I am willing to give up a bit of to end power to gain piece of mind not to fry a valve. I drove over 2000 miles to the Flagstaff convention and return making a nice long trip of it last May. good luck J.
 
Shell Rotella 15W40 recommended.
Diesel engine oil has additives that are beneficial to flat tappet/solid lifter cams.
 
I use Rotella in my 1931 A and my 57 Bird- 15W40
recommended by a lot of folks in the know.
 
I use the same thing (Rotella) in my 57 Bird.
 
CHAMBERS777 said:
Hi there, greetings from Scotland. I have recently took ownership of a 1957 Thunderbird with the 312, car was in Florida and was restored from the ground up 8 years ago, 2000 miles have been done since. I know this is a much debated topic but threads I have seen are a few years old now. Regarding engine oil what’s the recommendations with this, previous owner said he ran standard pennzoil 10w 30 with a ZDDP additive, the car doesn’t leak a dime from anywhere right now, it drives smooth and quiet. Temperatures in Scotland rarely get above the 70/75 mark in summer so nowhere near what he was driving it in Florida. Should I continue with the same product or is it worth changing?

Also for flushing out the radiator/cooling system is any good prestone with a 50/50 blend with water do the trick? I’ve ordered the shop manual so I am sure the details will be there but regarding transmission and power steering servicing intervals how long should I give it before changing? I am going to bleed the brakes as previous owner said he hasn’t done since he got it from the restorer, DOT 3 I’ll use in that.

Any other recommendations or advice with this topic is much appreciate, thanks for your time.

Regards
Chris
Click to expand...
Congratulations Chris,
I have a 57 that was restored in 2000 so it's 20 years old and things are popping up all the time and I am trying to stay ahead, but it's good-looking and fun to drive.
The 57 T-Bird specs, from the Owners Manual, calls for SAE 20 or 20 W motor oil. If you can get what the previous owner recommended then do it. I have also found Shell Rotella 15-40 recommended. I 'm using NAPA premium performance SAE 30.
For flushing Prestone 50-50 without water will be fine but if you do use water then make sure it's distilled water. I use Shell Zone 50-50 antifreeze without water because the water is already added.
your Dot 3 for the breaks is correct.
Good Luck,
Jay Fitzpatrick
 
jack-in-sac said:
I too recommend using Shell rotella 15-40. I use it due to the lack of zinc in modern oil that aids in not hammering your valves and seats. If you have had hardened valve seats installed you will have no problem with virtually quality motor oil. I don't worry about wringing every last bit of power from my '57 Bird. In fact I set the valves at 20 rather than factory recommended 19. I do re-adjust the valve at the beginning of each driving season. I use a P&G Valve Gapper. I am willing to give up a bit of to end power to gain piece of mind not to fry a valve. I drove over 2000 miles to the Flagstaff convention and return making a nice long trip of it last May. good luck J.
Click to expand...
Hey Everyone about Motor Oils, I have a 1957 T-Bird, 1967 Camaro, 1969 Camaro, thanks to my late father. He used Amsoil in all his cars! He told me older cars used leaded gasoline, and the older oils had ZDDP in them. Today ZDDP is too expensive and oil manufacturers don’t put in oil because it’s not cost effective. Amsoil Z-Rod does have ZDDP in it, as well as rust inhibitors. So, now I use it, and the cars run great!
 
I use Ford semi-synthetic & add ZDDP ($12) annually. ZDDP was removed from motor oil due to negative impact on catalytic converters.
 
Thanks, that is true, but also was leaded gasoline! The engine in the Ford T-bird was designed for leaded gasoline. Because of emission controls, unleaded gasoline was introduced. But, what about all the vehicles manufactured before 1972? They were left out to rust! So, today we must all use Unleaded gasoline, however, I choose to use Ethanol free! And my cars do run great! No engine were rebuilt. So, that’s why I use an oil that has ZDDP in it, and rust inhibitors. I don’t drive the cars over 5000 miles a year, so they sit idle a lot! And rust inside the engine can occur.
 
Not all oils have removed ZDDP. The 10/30, 10/40 and 20/50 oil have enough ZDDP so you don't have to use an additive. A noted engine builder of YBlock engines uses 10/30 and 10/40 Valvoline conventional in most his builds. That is what I use. he does not recommend Rotella diesel oil. He recommends oil should be changed at least once a year or more depending on mileage.
 
paul5456 said:
Not all oils have removed ZDDP. The 10/30, 10/40 and 20/50 oil have enough ZDDP so you don't have to use an additive. A noted engine builder of YBlock engines uses 10/30 and 10/40 Valvoline conventional in most his builds. That is what I use. he does not recommend Rotella diesel oil. He recommends oil should be changed at least once a year or more depending on mileage.
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I went to a class from API, the class was about how motor oil is made, and how synthetic motor oils as well. We did discuss how motor oils have changed since 1930’s. Yes, there is some manufacturers putting in ZDDP. But, you will not find in Walmart or auto shops. Only specialty and online. Expect to pay over $10.00 per quart! I use Amsoil Z-Rod 10w30 and 10w40. It’s a 100% Synthetic motor oil, not a blend like 95% off all other motor oils. Check it out

 
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As a long time engine powered enthusiast I am always concerned with the oils I use in anything. Be it a lawn mower or vintage engines. I have always questioned which is better for some applications given the ratings marking on each oil and the engines’ specifications. My 2001 F-150 after 16 highway years had 302,000 miles on it a sale time and the engine was absolutely in excellent condition. ( body was rough)

So, with those concerns and acquiring my 1957 T-bird, I stumbled across this blog after reading about the ZDDP and flat tappets. https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
This gentleman seems obsessed with finding the greatest oils for specific applications and if anyone has those interests and concerns… I had to pass this along.
 
I use Valvoline racing oil with high zink VR1 20W-50 in my ‘55 292 and ‘65 327. Being low compression, I run non-ethanol regular fuel because I don’t trust the original or aftermarket rubber parts with ethanol.

As far as the coolant, I use Perstone 50/50.
I flush the brakes about every two years with DOT3 to prevent moisture in the system.

Haven’t flushed the transmission yet, the fluid is still bright red and clean.

Good luck with your new Bird! Congratulations
 
CHAMBERS777 said:
Hi there, greetings from Scotland. I have recently took ownership of a 1957 Thunderbird with the 312, car was in Florida and was restored from the ground up 8 years ago, 2000 miles have been done since. I know this is a much debated topic but threads I have seen are a few years old now. Regarding engine oil what’s the recommendations with this, previous owner said he ran standard pennzoil 10w 30 with a ZDDP additive, the car doesn’t leak a dime from anywhere right now, it drives smooth and quiet. Temperatures in Scotland rarely get above the 70/75 mark in summer so nowhere near what he was driving it in Florida. Should I continue with the same product or is it worth changing?

Also for flushing out the radiator/cooling system is any good prestone with a 50/50 blend with water do the trick? I’ve ordered the shop manual so I am sure the details will be there but regarding transmission and power steering servicing intervals how long should I give it before changing? I am going to bleed the brakes as previous owner said he hasn’t done since he got it from the restorer, DOT 3 I’ll use in that.

Any other recommendations or advice with this topic is much appreciate, thanks for your time.

Regards
Chris
Click to expand...
Lubrication technology has come a long way in 70 years. I changed my block to include an adapter in order for the engine to accept modern filters. I run Castrol full synthetic. I do suggest if you are not mechanically skilled, have a pro do it. Replace all oil interfacing gaskets with silicone sealant first. You will notice a significant increase in RPM following replacement.
 
CHAMBERS777 said:
Hi there, greetings from Scotland. I have recently took ownership of a 1957 Thunderbird with the 312, car was in Florida and was restored from the ground up 8 years ago, 2000 miles have been done since. I know this is a much debated topic but threads I have seen are a few years old now. Regarding engine oil what’s the recommendations with this, previous owner said he ran standard pennzoil 10w 30 with a ZDDP additive, the car doesn’t leak a dime from anywhere right now, it drives smooth and quiet. Temperatures in Scotland rarely get above the 70/75 mark in summer so nowhere near what he was driving it in Florida. Should I continue with the same product or is it worth changing?

Also for flushing out the radiator/cooling system is any good prestone with a 50/50 blend with water do the trick? I’ve ordered the shop manual so I am sure the details will be there but regarding transmission and power steering servicing intervals how long should I give it before changing? I am going to bleed the brakes as previous owner said he hasn’t done since he got it from the restorer, DOT 3 I’ll use in that.

Any other recommendations or advice with this topic is much appreciate, thanks for your time.

Regards
Chris
Click to expand...
Do not use synthetic oil or conventional use on motor oil with zinc in it for these older motors
 
What? Zink is integral on lifter preservation. Thus the ZDDP. Now I can go both ways on synthetics. On a new rebuild possibly. But don't convert on an engine with some milage. I just had a great conversation with the owner of the Mustang shop I have do my work. He is against any synthetics on older vehicles. He mentioned that he has seen too many transmissions fail as the new synthetics evaporate much quicker and the owners don't know they need to check their fluids regularly.
When it comes to brake fluid stick to DOT3. If you want to convert, you have to flush the whole system with alcohol first as if the synthetic gets mixed with DOT3 it will coagulate and cause all sorts of problems. Same with the engine a complete flush before converting is critical.
 
Mobil 1 synthetic 15W-50W has all the zinc, etc older flat tappet engines need...
I ran it for two decades in both my 61 and 63 bone stock Corvettes.
Mob1.JPG
 
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Dot 3 and any non-silicone brake fluid is hygroscopic. That means it will attract water. Yes it can cause brake line issues. If you change your brake fluid about every two years you will not likely experience the water problem. There is a negative side to silicone brake fluid. The silicone brake fluid pparently has smaller molecules and has a greater tendency to leak than non-silicone brake fluid.
 
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