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- Sep 16, 2019
- Thunderbird Year
- 1957
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I believe that your operating temperature is much lower than optimum at 130 degrees F.. Normal ranges for many older engines is 190-225 degrees F. Modern engines may range may fro 210 up to 250 degrees F.Too low of an operating temperature can result in sludgy build-up. and poor oil flow. Nascar engines eve run up to 280 degrees F.. Those engines however are running at high r.p.m. for extended periods. That is way too high for me.So here we go
Also running a D code 57/automatic that also had a tendency to run pretty hot if forced to sit in slow traffic in summer. Engine freshly completely rebuilt, new water pump, thermostat.
running aux temp gauge that’s mounted in port on side of water pump, so reading front and back of system. Radiator had been rodded and flushed when engine was out.
this winter installed Champion 3 row aluminum radiator (DON’T PAINT) 6 blade flex fan and Casco’s large opening 170 degree thermostat. Just returned from a ride around town in 87 degree weather.
the aux temp gauge reads slightly over 130 degrees and the stock gauge on the dash is reading in the lower 1/3 of its range. I’d call that a win
You can draw your own opinion.
if you are not boiling over I would not fix it.
Was the water pump you installed one of the modified ones with the improved impeller?So here we go
Also running a D code 57/automatic that also had a tendency to run pretty hot if forced to sit in slow traffic in summer. Engine freshly completely rebuilt, new water pump, thermostat.
running aux temp gauge that’s mounted in port on side of water pump, so reading front and back of system. Radiator had been rodded and flushed when engine was out.
this winter installed Champion 3 row aluminum radiator (DON’T PAINT) 6 blade flex fan and Casco’s large opening 170 degree thermostat. Just returned from a ride around town in 87 degree weather.
the aux temp gauge reads slightly over 130 degrees and the stock gauge on the dash is reading in the lower 1/3 of its range. I’d call that a win
You can draw your own opinion.
Had our 57 overheat a few times when we were in Vegas, did a lot of research and just got in the Casco high output waterpump (20% cooler) and large opening 170 degree thermostat, steel 6 bladed fan blade and I also found a re-engineered Chris Ames A-432 waterpump spacer (google it), it's $$ but everything I read about it is very good, just waiting them them to contact me on it.
Mine gets pretty hot but never into the danger zone. The original 4 blade does OK I may change out the thermostat as I've heard NAPA has it but need to check clearance with the heater valve. Just need to get it off the jack stands and back on the road. Lots of tinkering under there and adding to the 'winter project' list.Had our 57 overheat a few times when we were in Vegas, did a lot of research and just got in the Casco high output waterpump (20% cooler) and large opening 170 degree thermostat, steel 6 bladed fan blade and I also found a re-engineered Chris Ames A-432 waterpump spacer (google it), it's $$ but everything I read about it is very good, just waiting them them to contact me on it.
Hi. I did some research on the problem, Henry just added a spacer behind water pump to move it closer to the radiator consequently the is a large gap behind the impeller which apparently allows for cavitation and poor water flow around the rear of the engine. CASCO sell a shaped plate that goes in between the block and the spacer to overcome the problem or they have modified pump with a deeper impeller. I have just fitted the modified pump to our 57 as the water circulation was really bad. Fingers crossed.I'm having the same problem. The temp gauge can top out or nearly reach H. So far the engine light has not come on. I have the improved propeller water pump, aluminum radiator with two 12" puller fans and larger diameter 180 degree theromstat. I also use ICE water wet. I suspect that the gauge is incorrect. The gas gauge when full also reads a quarter low and the engine will stall when hot when stopped or at a red light. Next week I am going to have the mechanic put a thermal temp gun on the engine to try an get an operating temperature. I have plan to have him install a new temp sending unit, fuel sending unit and oil temp unit and new accessory gauges and an overflow tank. If that fails, I give up.
Hi, when you fitted the new thermostat did you check the heater outlet was not protruding into the inlet manifold to far, there was an information sheet in the 170* thermostat carton. The large opening thermostat is longer than standard and will not open fully if the outlet protrudes to much.Had our 57 overheat a few times when we were in Vegas, did a lot of research and just got in the Casco high output waterpump (20% cooler) and large opening 170 degree thermostat, steel 6 bladed fan blade and I also found a re-engineered Chris Ames A-432 waterpump spacer (google it), it's $$ but everything I read about it is very good, just waiting them them to contact me on it.
Get the wide mouth thermostat. Also the improved water pump spacer. Never heard of a oil cooler system made for a TBird, Try the people who work on race cars for a unit that will work. Don't know what the temps go to in southern Spain, but doubt they are any worse than our southern statesI'm looking for a oil cooler system for my T'Bird, have fitted an electric fan and about to fit a high output water pump. All to alleviate the over heating problem here in southern Spain.