1955 cranks but no start

sidewinder74

sidewinder74

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Sep 19, 2023
Thunderbird Year
1955
Hello all, thanks for allowing my attendance. My friend has a 55' T-bird and it stopped starting a week ago. It drove fine then he cut it off and now it will not start, it turns and turns with dragging but no full on crank and run. Please advise. Thank you
 

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It could be a fuel blockage from the gas tank, or check the fuel filter bulb glass does it have gas in t. It could also be the fuel pump.
 
If it is not turning over fast enough it could be a low battery or time for a starter rebuild. I would also check for spark, the condenser could have died.
 
If it is not turning over fast enough it could be a low battery or time for a starter rebuild. I would also check for spark, the condenser could have died.
Oh wow I didn't know about the condenser, and is that different from the AC condenser. I honestly have not worked on anything older than a 97 burb, but I want to do my best. And as per the glass fuel bulb yes it's full to rim, I did take the line loose that goes into the rear side of carb (facing windshield) and it seemed to be bone dry, not a drip of fuel.
 
I know fuel pumps have been a huge issue lately. Try pouring a little gas into the carb. It should fire and run until that fuel is gone. If it does not fire, I would check to see if there is a spark at the points. Remove the distributor cap and crank the engine. There should be a spark at the points. If there is no spark there, pull the coil wire and see if there is a spark at the coil to the distributor cap. I had this problem a while back and I had to replace the coil. Good luck.
 
My friend, I am having the same issue!!! It sounds like you did not grow up with these machines. I did. They are simple, until they are not!!!
First problem is that they are 6VDC. Next is Ford's bright idea was to us + ground.
Here is a primer: It is either one of three things. 1-Mechanical, 2-Fuel or 3-Electrical. If you have a spare spark plug, Pull one lead, any lead off and insert your extra plug into it and ground it to the engine by connecting where the hex or threads of the plug are with a clean ground. You can use jumper cables, a gator clamp like those used on a battery tender/charger or just use a zip tie to the grounding surface. Have someone turn the engine over. While they are doing that, watch for a spark. Don't do this in bright light. The spark is hard to see. Use a rag or towel to shroud the light so the area around the plug is darkened to make the spark more apparent. If you don't have spark, it could be the condenser which is inside the distributor, the coil which is the big beer can looking thing that has a wire to the center of the distributor cap. Or, a cracked distributor cap, bad points, bad coil wire, bad voltage regulator, bad connections at any given junction/terminal and so on. Start with the least expensive item first if you are doing replacements. But verify that there is NO spark.

Be very careful about pouring fuel down the throat of the carb. If you do this, with the air cleaner totally off, have a fire blanket handy to snuff any fire that may result. Those fumes are a bomb.

If you have spark, check fuel next. Those mechanical fuel pumps crap out. Most people install electric ones, hit the "run" key to activate it briefly to load the carb before turning the key to "start".
 
be advised the condenser in a pre-electronic ignition system like this is actually a capacitor, small round metal can with a single wire, you will see when removing the distributor cap.. very different than the heat exchanger called a condenser in an AC system.
When putting gas down the carb to see if the car will start you are talking about a couple tablespoons worth, one on each side.

Let us know what you discover.
 
Place a voltmeter on the battery while cranking. If the voltage drops below 6Volts you may have a bad battery. If by chance the car has Pertronix ignition, it will not work below 6 volts IE you will have no spark. Check for warm or hot cables during cranking. Heat equals resistance which steals current from the starter, causing poor cranking speeds.
 
A sudden no start like that points to electrical/ignition. Time to get the volt/continuity meter to work.
 
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