Need help with directional signals - 57 T-Bird

[dan1520]

My directional signal lever will not stay up or down when engaged. All the signal lights work correctly but I have to hold it in place both up and down to make it work. I removed the steering wheel & cleaned the switch and noticed the switch has a internal spring that brings it to the center position. Perhaps the internal spring in the switch is too strong? I'm at a loss to figure it out & could sure use some advice.

Thanks in advance.

Dan A.

 

[vintage750]

seems unlikely a spring would get stronger over time (52 yrs) , only weaker.

Any worn contact points in the movement??

 

[vintage750]

the aluminum colored box (if you will) that has all the wires going to it in your steering column and a black slide button sticking out of it - that has any number of copper contact points in it. Mine needed cleaning and in one case I had to solder some extra on one of them due to wear. If worse comes to worse there are NOS replacements out there on Ebay for sale but unhooking the wires and then feeding through new ones would not be fun.

 

[dan1520]

I sprayed inside the switch with contact cleaner and it makes contact when I hold it up or down. It's when it's controlled by the mechanism that it won't stay up or down to make contact. It's frustrating.

Dan

 

[vintage750]

so that would seem to rule out the switch itself as the culprit. That leaves the mechanism under the steering wheel to consider. There might be worn part(s) there due to long use and possible lack of lubrication. If you can remove the wheel and study the action you might see some corner that is rounded off or some joint that is sloppy.

If you get that area open perhaps you could post a digital photo...

 

[dan1520]

I think I may have the answer. At least I hope so.

Looking at the mechanism with the steering wheel off, it appears that the Turn Signal Cancelling Plate Assembly (part # 13304) is not getting enough pressure to hold the switch in the on position both up and down. There is a spring (Part # 13343) attached to the switch that places enough pressure on Part # 13304) to hold it down enough to keep it in place. It could be weak so,
I'm going to order one & try it. It seems a logical approach but we'll see.

Will advise if it works. Thanks for your responses.

Dan

 

[vintage750]

You could try stretching the spring some to increase it's tension. Or take it to a good hardware store and hunt through the specialty hardware section and see if something comes close that might be stiffer.

In any event, good luck!

John

 

[Ward 57]

I have the opposite problem. The switch is grinding as I move it and the return to center after a turn does not work. It's been that way as long as I can remember. 40+years. I assume a steering wheel puller will be required. Do I buy one or can they be rented?

 

[Douglemmo]

Remove the nut. You may be able to remove the wheel without a puller. They can be rented.

 

[doug7740]

I have the opposite problem. The switch is grinding as I move it and the return to center after a turn does not work. It's been that way as long as I can remember. 40+years. I assume a steering wheel puller will be required. Do I buy one or can they be rented?

A steering wheel puller is required when removing the steering wheel, but be careful not to damage the horn button when using the puller. I used an old socket to protect the horn button while using the puller. Attached is a picture of the horn button I'm referring to and the setup using the socket and puller.

Since you said that your concern is a grinding noise, the problem could be interference between the bottom of the steering wheel and the chrome cup. If that's the case, attached is an article from the September/October 1995 Early Bird magazine which addresses this concern.

Since you asked your question on an older post about the turn indicators canceling before making a turn and no one supplied an answer, I also attached an article that addresses that concern.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[Ward 57]

A steering wheel puller is required when removing the steering wheel, but be careful not to damage the horn button when using the puller. I used an old socket to protect the horn button while using the puller. Attached is a picture of the horn button I'm referring to and the setup using the socket and puller.

Since you said that your concern is a grinding noise, the problem could be interference between the bottom of the steering wheel and the chrome cup. If that's the case, attached is an article from the September/October 1995 Early Bird magazine which addresses this concern.

Since you asked your question on an older post about the turn indicators canceling before making a turn and no one supplied an answer, I also attached an article that addresses that concern.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

The grinding is not from the wheel. It's from the switch itself. From the diagrams there is a roller wheel that is to smooth the operation. I'm suspecting it's long gone.

 

[doug7740]

Until you remove the horn ring and take a look under the steering wheel you will never know. The attached pictures were taken from my 1955 T-Bird with the horn ring removed and the steering wheel still installed.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue