2004 Suspension A Arm Movement

[Bobwheeler]

I replaced both front strut assys. and sway bar links. In doing so, I studied the two "A" arms. To remove/install the strut, I had to remove the big nut on the lower ball joint and pry the lower "A" arm down so the bottom of the strut would fit into the pocket. Question: Logic would tell me that the "A"arms would move up and down almost freely. Can anyone tell me what to expect here?

Eventually I expect to replace these parts too but everything is tight. No movement of ball joints or "A" arm bushings both sides. The lower ball joint boots were fine. The uppers were totally gone. As an interim fix, I cleaned up the upper joints completely, repacked with grease and wrapped with self sealing vinyl tape as suggested by another member. Will do the rear struts next.

 

[rjdimonda]

I replaced both front strut assys. and sway bar links. In doing so, I studied the two "A" arms. To remove/install the strut, I had to remove the big nut on the lower ball joint and pry the lower "A" arm down so the bottom of the strut would fit into the pocket. Question: Logic would tell me that the "A"arms would move up and down almost freely. Can anyone tell me what to expect here?

Eventually I expect to replace these parts too but everything is tight. No movement of ball joints or "A" arm bushings both sides. The lower ball joint boots were fine. The uppers were totally gone. As an interim fix, I cleaned up the upper joints completely, repacked with grease and wrapped with self sealing vinyl tape as suggested by another member. Will do the rear struts next.

What you changed from what I have read is the easier thing to change. If the car now steers better and very securely and you didn't find any wobble in the other joints....seems you are done. Steering slop is pretty easy to notice which is why I didn't change anything on my car that had only 16k miles on it when I got it. Car steered very precisely and so I Just greased things up and covered up the broken rubber boots with Flex tape.

 

[Redbird 02]

The upper and lower control arms will not move freely up and down unless the rubber bushings are shot. They are designed to be torqued at ride height when new. The rubber does allow restricted up and down movement. If the existing conteol arms tend to "spring" back to center when pressed up or down...they are still good.

 

[Bobwheeler]

Steering is very good on this car at 77K. Control arms in front are good to go for now. Will get to them next time around. Just gutted the trunk to find the shock towers. Vacation coming up so that may have to wait.

 

[Bobwheeler]

Was cruising the ebay tbird parts page and found something new. A pkg of 14, ball joint rubber boots for $14. Bunch of different sizes. I ordered one pkg. Maybe these can de back fit on those ball joints I used tape on. Anyone else have experience with these?

 

[gregl32]

Was cruising the ebay tbird parts page and found something new. A pkg of 14, ball joint rubber boots for $14. Bunch of different sizes. I ordered one pkg. Maybe these can de back fit on those ball joints I used tape on. Anyone else have experience with these?

I just saw those the other day too. I was going to look at various suspension joints and see if it made sense to try a set. Based on that 14 piece set, you might need multiple sets to get enough boots of the correct sizes. It looks like the set doesn't have duplicates.
Greg

 

[Bobwheeler]

Right you are. This a trial run just to see the product and hopefully get one to fit. If it looks viable, I'll get the old calipers out and get some measurements. Slow but sure. New front strut assy's made a nice difference on test ride. Rear's are next after vacation.

 

[gregl32]

Right you are. This a trial run just to see the product and hopefully get one to fit. If it looks viable, I'll get the old calipers out and get some measurements. Slow but sure. New front strut assy's made a nice difference on test ride. Rear's are next after vacation.

Any further news to report?

 

[Bobwheeler]

First shipment lost. Second received. Finished rear strut change out. Car back on jack stand with left front tire off, caliper and rotor removed. New upper A arm and new lower ball jt. standing by.

Had to leave town for grandson's HS grad. So when I get back in 3 days, it will be the moment of truth. I will finish disassembly of the ball joints and see if I have a fit.

As for the boots themselves, they look fine and appear as though they will fit. Stand by.

 

[Bobwheeler]

These pics show progress.

 

[gregl32]

These pics show progress.

Have a great time at graduation. Will look forward to hearing more about the car project. P.S. Pics didn't make it to the post.

 

[Bobwheeler]

Have a great time at graduation. Will look forward to hearing more about the car project. P.S. Pics didn't make it to the post.

 

[Bobwheeler]

Been busy elsewhere so time for a little catch up. The rubber boots are a success. You have to be dilligent in finding a fit. Ford held these in with a metal ring and rings that look like gaskets. Not sure how all that works as they all cromble.

The boots fit in the grooves just fine once you find one that fits. To hold them in place in the grooves I used 0.041" stainless lockwire spun tight with lock wire pliers from HF. Worked well. I bought another set of boots to give me an ample supply. Did put in two new rear suspension rods as they each have 3 boots so I took the eady way out. Upper and lower front ball jts and steering link nall jts all got new boots. Grease injection by plastic syringe. Works well.

 

[gregl32]

Been busy elsewhere so time for a little catch up. The rubber boots are a success. You have to be dilligent in finding a fit. Ford held these in with a metal ring and rings that look like gaskets. Not sure how all that works as they all cromble.

The boots fit in the grooves just fine once you find one that fits. To hold them in place in the grooves I used 0.041" stainless lockwire spun tight with lock wire pliers from HF. Worked well. I bought another set of boots to give me an ample supply. Did put in two new rear suspension rods as they each have 3 boots so I took the eady way out. Upper and lower front ball jts and steering link nall jts all got new boots. Grease injection by plastic syringe. Works well.

That's great news,. I'll buy a couple sets and see if i have similar success.

 

[Bobwheeler]

The other option is to use zip ties vs wire. Not sure of the longevity. Once you are in that deep, might as well go with stainless wire. 0.041 is what I had. A smaller dia. might work better. Say 0.030

I replaced the boot on the lower, front left ball jt and found it to be in perfect condition. Could have left it in place but as I said, once you arr in this deep. Good luck.

 

[gregl32]

The other option is to use zip ties vs wire. Not sure of the longevity. Once you are in that deep, might as well go with stainless wire. 0.041 is what I had. A smaller dia. might work better. Say 0.030

I replaced the boot on the lower, front left ball jt and found it to be in perfect condition. Could have left it in place but as I said, once you arr in this deep. Good luck.

All of my boots were/are rotted off so we'll see what happens.

 

[Bobwheeler]

After thoroughly cleaning the area with out solvent, move the ball in all directions and feel fo roughness or loosness. I had none which speaks well of the oem fittings. I ordered a second set of them so I would not be shorted. Let me know what you think after you get in to it. Seems like a no brainer so have to wonder if I am missing something.

 

[edward301]

I changed the complete suspension on all three of my T Birds. First one is a 2002 that had 12k miles, the boots were shot, the ball
joints were good but moved around freely. I replaced everything and replaced shocks-struts while in there. The new ball joints were
tight and smooth, the shocks were leaking oil around the shaft, so it was time. All the rubber on the rear was in bad shape just like
the ball joint boots, so replaced everything there also. The second T Bird had 13k miles, same exact situation. My third T Bird is a
parts car somewhat, high mileage 129k I bought used for body parts if ever needed, I replaced most of the suspension, some parts
up front had been replaced by previous owner, installed new shocks also.

All three drive like a dream. Replacing all the suspension in the rear got rid of the clunks, and knocking when going over humps in
the road.

 

[Bobwheeler]

When you say you replaced "all", does that include the upper and lower, front and back control arms? Also, how do you remove the lower, front ball joints? I have done everything else but not sure if I want to tackle those arms.
Bob

 

[Bobwheeler]

With the exception of sway bars and their brackets that hold them, the left rear suspension parts are all replaced and road tested. The right rear has the new upper arm assy. installed not torqued yet, and the lower arm is on the bench with bushings removed, bead blasted for appearance and all bores honed.
I have learned a few things. Both arms come out quite easily with common tools. The bushings are quite challenging. I rented two different tool sets from two different stores and they won't fit. The stack up won't fit within the jaws of the "C" clamp provided. For removal, the stack up consists of a pusher flange, a pusher ring or mandrel, the control arm, a receiving cup and receiving flange. The install stack up is worse (longer) in that the new bushing is now part of it. The good news is that some of the pieces from the kits together with my home made parts all in the 12 ton hydraulic press did work but was tedious and takes two people. The interference fit is 0.001" to 0.005". We did destructively remove a few. Drove the center of the rubber bushing straight out and hack sawed the rim. There was a lot of cobbling both out and in. Now we have some better fitting mandrels/cups/pushers and supports and knowledge so install should go better.