1964 TBird Emergency flashers + dash mess

[Shadrack]

I think I see a black-red wire on that connector plug. The only black-red wire is for the back up lights. My guess is the other wires on that plug are white and two red-blue wires. The black-red and white are for the back up light circuit and the red-blue wire is from the ignition switch to the solenoid and passing through the safety start switch. That plug goes to the back up light and neutral safety start switch. (probably on the steering column above where your feet would be when driving the car) Also, the black-red comes from the fuse box to the plug and there should be another black-red paired up with white. The white goes out to feed the windshield washer switch. I would guess that they bypassed that back up / neutral start switch when they put in the start button instead of actually repairing whatever it was that was stopping the car from starting. Do you have working back up lights? Will the car start in any gear other than park or neutral? (it shouldn't) Do your windshield washers work?

I will go take another picture soon - the hospice nurse is here now working with my mom and giving me a bit of break. I really hate that they hacked up the car that way! I will check to see if it starts in other gears as well - but I am pretty sure it does not. I also do not think that I have backup lights. I do not have the bag filled for the fluid and have not tried the motor though. With all they bypass could that cause the dead interior lights or is that a fuse? The gauges light up a speedo with the headlight switch - but otherwise, no lights inside.

Do you think the car ought to take a trip to the auto electrical shop? I don't want a fire hazard! I will take any suggestions. THANKS IN ADVANCE! I REALLY appreciate the help.

 

[fordrodsteven]

I will go take another picture soon - the hospice nurse is here now working with my mom and giving me a bit of break. I really hate that they hacked up the car that way! I will check to see if it starts in other gears as well - but I am pretty sure it does not. I also do not think that I have backup lights. I do not have the bag filled for the fluid and have not tried the motor though. With all they bypass could that cause the dead interior lights or is that a fuse? The gauges light up a speedo with the headlight switch - but otherwise, no lights inside.

Do you think the car ought to take a trip to the auto electrical shop? I don't want a fire hazard! I will take any suggestions. THANKS IN ADVANCE! I REALLY appreciate the help.

I don't think it will catch fire. I think that would have happened already if it were going to happen. Regarding the interior lights I will have to look at the wiring diagrams again. Why would you send it to an electrical shop? Most of the stuff is just a matter of sorting it out by each circuit and then applying a little logic and then testing before just hooking all up at once. You first need to get your inspection cleared then you can fix things piecemeal once the car is cleared through the inspection.
Which interior lights are you talking about? In the dash? Or when you open the doors the lights that light up the interior?

 

[Shadrack]

I don't think it will catch fire. I think that would have happened already if it were going to happen. Regarding the interior lights I will have to look at the wiring diagrams again. Why would you send it to an electrical shop? Most of the stuff is just a matter of sorting it out by each circuit and then applying a little logic and then testing before just hooking all up at once. You first need to get your inspection cleared then you can fix things piecemeal once the car is cleared through the inspection.
Which interior lights are you talking about? In the dash? Or when you open the doors the lights that light up the interior?

Hello,
Good to hear on the fire part lol. I have been looking at all the manuals I can but some of it is taking time for me to learn. Passing inspection is indeed the priority here - for sure! I guess I am just a little afraid to jump into electrical as it seems like a big mystery - but you and the others have helped to dismiss that. I really appreciate it. As long as I can get passed inspection we can hash out the rest.

When I open the doors no lights. My fuse box has some rusted contacts - I am betting that is an issue. What is the best way to clean up the contacts on a rusted fuse box like that? I know I need to put in the fuse for the flasher and the contacts are a bit rusty. I just got my multimeter is the mail so I am ready to test things - not sure how to use it but willing to learn.

Here are the pictures I have collected:
This is a better shot of the wires, does this help? Some are redundant - sorry, having PC problems. Any suggestions on rewiring welcomed - thank you so much!

Okay this one here below....lol LAZY? How hard is it to do this the right way? It does work though...

This is a yellow wire running to the alternator - any reason this is in place seems weird??


Green wires goijg to ignition





A shot behind the dash showing the switch and green wires.
These green wires seem to be going to the ignition. and switch

Another shot of the wires

 

[fordrodsteven]

The green wires going to your ignition switch are absolutely not original equipment. Those are spliced in by someone to make it start. For now I would recommend leave it alone until after you get through the inspection. Do you everything that is required working for inspection? You can sort all the other stuff out afterwards. I also recommend setting up or getting a test light to use with the Multimeter. I have one that looks like an ice pick with a light inside the (see through) handle It has a wire coming out of the handle and has an alligator clip on the end of the wire.

What color are those wires coming out of that plug? it looks like black-red, black, green (or is it white?)

The yellow wire to the alternator is probably okay for now.

What is that on the fender directional? Is that supposed to be a ground wire?

 

[Shadrack]

The green wires going to your ignition switch are absolutely not original equipment. Those are spliced in by someone to make it start. For now I would recommend leave it alone until after you get through the inspection. Do you everything that is required working for inspection? You can sort all the other stuff out afterwards. I also recommend setting up or getting a test light to use with the Multimeter. I have one that looks like an ice pick with a light inside the (see through) handle It has a wire coming out of the handle and has an alligator clip on the end of the wire.

What color are those wires coming out of that plug? it looks like black-red, black, green (or is it white?)

The yellow wire to the alternator is probably okay for now.

What is that on the fender directional? Is that supposed to be a ground wire?

Hey!
Best I can tell the wire is green. It looks like they grounded that fender turn signal is grounded crazy, wire come out of the hood lol. I need to route it around.

My main thing is getting the car past inspection like you said - thank you for all the help. My emergency flashers still do not work. Going to try a flasher tonight but I'm concerned that the fuse holder is rusted - what is a good way to to clean those contacts?

I really thank you !

 

[fordrodsteven]

I think I figured out that plug. (Black-red, green, black) It looks like it might be for the seat belt warning light and switch. That's the only connection I see with that color combination when I peruse the wiring diagrams.

Regarding cleaning the fuse connections it gets a little iffy. Maybe a piece of black oxide sandpaper and try to swipe it through the sides of the clips where the fuses will touch? You might be able to wrap a small piece of sandpaper around a small allen wrench and work it around and through the clips. Disconnect the battery first so you don't short out anything. Then you can use your multimeter set to read continuity to see if a fuse in the clips will carry the voltage across.
Maybe if you can get a small round needle file you can get it in there to clean the contacts? I think there is even a small file that is slightly curved near the ends and it might be able to get in there. It just takes a lot of patience and sometimes some ingenuity.
If you are going to try to clean contacts inside a plug (flat type connection) you may have a little success with a point file or even just folding a piece of sandpaper and swiping it in and out of the plug.
The important thing to remember is to try to insure the contacts are able to make a good connection when you are done swiping at them. If anything deforms just gently bend it back to position. Other guys on the site might have methods to clean contacts that they have been successful with.

Do you know what they will be inspecting when they check out your car?

 

[Shadrack]

I think I figured out that plug. (Black-red, green, black) It looks like it might be for the seat belt warning light and switch. That's the only connection I see with that color combination when I peruse the wiring diagrams.

Regarding cleaning the fuse connections it gets a little iffy. Maybe a piece of black oxide sandpaper and try to swipe it through the sides of the clips where the fuses will touch? You might be able to wrap a small piece of sandpaper around a small allen wrench and work it around and through the clips. Disconnect the battery first so you don't short out anything. Then you can use your multimeter set to read continuity to see if a fuse in the clips will carry the voltage across.
Maybe if you can get a small round needle file you can get it in there to clean the contacts? I think there is even a small file that is slightly curved near the ends and it might be able to get in there. It just takes a lot of patience and sometimes some ingenuity.
If you are going to try to clean contacts inside a plug (flat type connection) you may have a little success with a point file or even just folding a piece of sandpaper and swiping it in and out of the plug.
The important thing to remember is to try to insure the contacts are able to make a good connection when you are done swiping at them. If anything deforms just gently bend it back to position. Other guys on the site might have methods to clean contacts that they have been successful with.

Do you know what they will be inspecting when they check out your car?

Hey Steve,

I need to get it inspected within the next 2 weeks, really earlier because the dude wants it out of his name badly - totally understand - but a bill of sale does cover him - but still. So, I am hoping this weekend I can clean the contacts like your talking about and get the eflashers going. I got some of the richness out of the idle with seafoam, think I had a stuck float. However, the carb looks bad and is old. I think it will get the inspection done fine with it - but it may come to a replacement or rebuild at least. I need to replace the plugs, vacuum lines, and water pump this weekend as well. The previous owner torqued the power steering pump down so hard that it broke the ear off the water pump! Found that last night when the steering wheel went even wonkier.

I really appreciate all the help from all of you in trying to get past inspection. I just need to get there and then I can relax and enjoy bringing this beauty back to life with your help.

I have decided to call her Rose...for my mother. My mother has weeks to a month left - I am taking care of her with my father. This way I can keep her close to me.

 

[Shadrack]

I think I figured out that plug. (Black-red, green, black) It looks like it might be for the seat belt warning light and switch. That's the only connection I see with that color combination when I peruse the wiring diagrams.

Regarding cleaning the fuse connections it gets a little iffy. Maybe a piece of black oxide sandpaper and try to swipe it through the sides of the clips where the fuses will touch? You might be able to wrap a small piece of sandpaper around a small allen wrench and work it around and through the clips. Disconnect the battery first so you don't short out anything. Then you can use your multimeter set to read continuity to see if a fuse in the clips will carry the voltage across.
Maybe if you can get a small round needle file you can get it in there to clean the contacts? I think there is even a small file that is slightly curved near the ends and it might be able to get in there. It just takes a lot of patience and sometimes some ingenuity.
If you are going to try to clean contacts inside a plug (flat type connection) you may have a little success with a point file or even just folding a piece of sandpaper and swiping it in and out of the plug.
The important thing to remember is to try to insure the contacts are able to make a good connection when you are done swiping at them. If anything deforms just gently bend it back to position. Other guys on the site might have methods to clean contacts that they have been successful with.

Do you know what they will be inspecting when they check out your car?

I tried the new flasher and a fuse - no dice, dead as a doornail. Here are some pictures of the fuse box as well as the flashers I tried. Did I get the wrong flasher? I notice a cable unplugged and one taped. What do you all think?

 

[Shadrack]

I think I see a black-red wire on that connector plug. The only black-red wire is for the back up lights. My guess is the other wires on that plug are white and two red-blue wires. The black-red and white are for the back up light circuit and the red-blue wire is from the ignition switch to the solenoid and passing through the safety start switch. That plug goes to the back up light and neutral safety start switch. (probably on the steering column above where your feet would be when driving the car) Also, the black-red comes from the fuse box to the plug and there should be another black-red paired up with white. The white goes out to feed the windshield washer switch. I would guess that they bypassed that back up / neutral start switch when they put in the start button instead of actually repairing whatever it was that was stopping the car from starting. Do you have working back up lights? Will the car start in any gear other than park or neutral? (it shouldn't) Do your windshield washers work?

I am a little worried about this. I circled the wires in question in yellow, what were these supposed to go to?

 

[Shadrack]

Okay, all,
Wow, its been crazy. So, I cleaned the fuse box with vinegar and contact cleaner. I scrubbed it with a wire copper brush they cleaned it again. I stuck all the fuses in and EVERYTHING came back to life!!!!!!! I think I have more work to do though, the flasher fuse gets very hot, someone said that is due to corrosion still on the contacts. Also, the two flashers I bought online were junk, the 55-year-old original worked! I want to get a replacement just in case (would be nice if it clicked but does not have too), any of you know where I can get a good quality emergency flasher for this 64?

Here is a short video showing my success. Forgive the bad narration and cam skills - it was late and I am tired.

 

[64ZCODE]

 

[Shadrack]

View attachment 3839

Thank you! It was like that movie Christine - where she was all like "I wonder why...I love you like I do."

It was so cool to see those flashers work....

THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH!

 

[Shadrack]

I think I figured out that plug. (Black-red, green, black) It looks like it might be for the seat belt warning light and switch. That's the only connection I see with that color combination when I peruse the wiring diagrams.

Regarding cleaning the fuse connections it gets a little iffy. Maybe a piece of black oxide sandpaper and try to swipe it through the sides of the clips where the fuses will touch? You might be able to wrap a small piece of sandpaper around a small allen wrench and work it around and through the clips. Disconnect the battery first so you don't short out anything. Then you can use your multimeter set to read continuity to see if a fuse in the clips will carry the voltage across.
Maybe if you can get a small round needle file you can get it in there to clean the contacts? I think there is even a small file that is slightly curved near the ends and it might be able to get in there. It just takes a lot of patience and sometimes some ingenuity.
If you are going to try to clean contacts inside a plug (flat type connection) you may have a little success with a point file or even just folding a piece of sandpaper and swiping it in and out of the plug.
The important thing to remember is to try to insure the contacts are able to make a good connection when you are done swiping at them. If anything deforms just gently bend it back to position. Other guys on the site might have methods to clean contacts that they have been successful with.

Do you know what they will be inspecting when they check out your car?

Hey Steve,
I found some wiring diagrams online. It looks like the green wire went to the seat belt warning light - no loss there lol. I did see where it looks like they have bypassed the neutral safety switch altogether! Why would they do that? The switch is not that much? What would be a good reason to disable it. I bet you 20 bucks that I could start it in gear or wherever - not tried it yet of course.

Backup lights do not work - I am wondering, is there a way to jump the backup lights? I noticed they are grounded at the socket it seems. So...would it be a matter of supplying 12v to the black -red wire via a fused switch (for safety?) That way when I go into reverse I can hit the switch then turn it off? I am thinking that even a switched power wire might be best ins case I forget to turn off the lights lol. I would like to replace the neutral switch a get the car back to normal after inspection, but I would also like to be safe as possible and backup lights help. I can always undo the switch later.

I also wanted to ask - What are you thoughts on upgrading my fuse panel to a newer model with the square fuses? It seems like that might be better overall.

Thanks!

 

[Shadrack]

I think I see a black-red wire on that connector plug. The only black-red wire is for the back up lights. My guess is the other wires on that plug are white and two red-blue wires. The black-red and white are for the back up light circuit and the red-blue wire is from the ignition switch to the solenoid and passing through the safety start switch. That plug goes to the back up light and neutral safety start switch. (probably on the steering column above where your feet would be when driving the car) Also, the black-red comes from the fuse box to the plug and there should be another black-red paired up with white. The white goes out to feed the windshield washer switch. I would guess that they bypassed that back up / neutral start switch when they put in the start button instead of actually repairing whatever it was that was stopping the car from starting. Do you have working back up lights? Will the car start in any gear other than park or neutral? (it shouldn't) Do your windshield washers work?

Hey Steve,
I found some wiring diagrams online. It looks like the green wire went to the seat belt warning light - no loss there lol. I did see where it looks like they have bypassed the neutral safety switch altogether! Why would they do that? The switch is not that much? What would be a good reason to disable it. I bet you 20 bucks that I could start it in gear or wherever - not tried it yet of course.

Backup lights do not work - I am wondering, is there a way to jump the backup lights? I noticed they are grounded at the socket it seems. So...would it be a matter of supplying 12v to the black -red wire via a fused switch (for safety?) That way when I go into reverse I can hit the switch then turn it off? I am thinking that even a switched power wire might be best ins case I forget to turn off the lights lol. I would like to replace the neutral switch a get the car back to normal after inspection, but I would also like to be safe as possible and backup lights help. I can always undo the switch later.

I also wanted to ask - What are you thoughts on upgrading my fuse panel to a newer model with the square fuses? It seems like that might be better overall.

Thanks!

 

[fordrodsteven]

At this point I would think you just want to clear that PITA inspection. Do you need the back up lights for the inspection? Once you take care of the inspection then you can decide what to do with your car. If everything is hooked up as original and functioning correctly these cars are a dream to drive AND it is easier to sort out problems using correct troubleshhoting logic and original diagrams / manuals for reference. Just make sure if you decide to make changes to wiring that you somehow document it in case you need it for future reference.
I really see no problem with swapping out to the newer model fuse box. It may even be easier to find the newer style fuses rather than the old style clip in tubular fuses. Are you planning to get a fuse box from a later model Ford? The reason I ask is because then it should be an easy one for one swap with the wiring into the newer fuse box.

 

[Shadrack]

At this point I would think you just want to clear that PITA inspection. Do you need the back up lights for the inspection? Once you take care of the inspection then you can decide what to do with your car. If everything is hooked up as original and functioning correctly these cars are a dream to drive AND it is easier to sort out problems using correct troubleshhoting logic and original diagrams / manuals for reference. Just make sure if you decide to make changes to wiring that you somehow document it in case you need it for future reference.
I really see no problem with swapping out to the newer model fuse box. It may even be easier to find the newer style fuses rather than the old style clip in tubular fuses. Are you planning to get a fuse box from a later model Ford? The reason I ask is because then it should be an easy one for one swap with the wiring into the newer fuse box.

I have seen some fuse boxes online, I am very interested because I want the car to be safe and upgraded if possible. Where would you look for a replacement fuse box? Any models of ford that might be best? I really want to try and go with the blade style fuses or whatever they are called if I can.

 

[fordrodsteven]

I have seen some fuse boxes online, I am very interested because I want the car to be safe and upgraded if possible. Where would you look for a replacement fuse box? Any models of ford that might be best? I really want to try and go with the blade style fuses or whatever they are called if I can.

If you're going to change out the fuse box to the "blade" type it really doesn't matter if it's from /for a Ford or not. I was thinking like going to a parts recycler (junk yard) and liberating a fuse box from a Ford vehicle. There are many fuse blocks / boxes available aftermarket. Just be sure to make any connections the same fuse protection as original. It's a bit of work but definitely do-able. I think you just need to clear that inspection first then you can dive into the wiring. Count up your existing fused circuits and get a fuse box with at least that many fuses. Are all other systems (brakes, fuel, misc. mechanical) functioning okay?

 

[Ezdarryl58]

Replaced headlight and dimmer switch all dash lights head and taillights work but no emergency flasher i looked everywhere under dash cant find it found yellow and green wire cut underneath possibly wires for emergency flasher cant find in shop manual
Any help guys ?

 

[64ZCODE]

Hey Ezdarryl58. Probably a dumb question, but did your car come with one? My understanding is the emergency flasher was optional on the '64 cars.

Doug

 

[Ezdarryl58]

Have the light where door light is under map lights. So i guess. I have A/C and seatbelts