1962 Overheating in traffic at idle

[BigGar]

Car is otherwise correct in every way, but gets warm when driving and especially idling in traffic. The fan blades are not super visible due to the large shroud, so a puller wouldn't be really noticeable. Pushers mounted through the A/C condenser would also kind of disappear. There is a little bit of play in the factory fan, so maybe it's just got a bad thermostatic fan clutch. The car is equipped with a generator, and would that provide adequate power to run the fan continuously without draining the battery in the process? I have a guy who can turn the generator into an alternator without visible difference if I need more juice. I'm sure I'm not reinventing the wheel here but it's not something I've personally done before. I'd like to either wire it up to come on with the ignition key, or maybe with a thermostatic switch, or maybe a manual switch? Anyway, looking for any input y'all can offer. Car is located in north San Diego county and is part of a collection I take care of.
Unrelated to the post above, I can't seem to get the secondaries in the 4BBL carburetor to work. Everything is basically brand new. It's a very fresh and well done restoration. Like most restorations, some shakedown time is necessary, and I'm just the guy to do it.
Thanks in advance for any advice.

Gar

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[Mrjagrock]

As a former A/C Kit Manufacturer, the Puller Fan is the best scenario. Much more efficient, but buy a good one !

 

[BigGar]

As a former A/C Kit Manufacturer, the Puller Fan is the best scenario. Much more efficient, but buy a good one !

Is there a brand you recommend? I'd prefer not to have to upgrade the generator if I can help it, but the main thing is that it operates effectively! It doesn't look like there's room for a puller fan unless I remove the mechanical fan. Is that what you would do?

 

[BigGar]

As a former A/C Kit Manufacturer, the Puller Fan is the best scenario. Much more efficient, but buy a good one !

I'd also hope to not have a lot of fabrication involved in mounting it, and want to keep the appearance as invisible as I can. Fortunately, the mechanical fan isn't super visible anyway due to the top of the shroud, so removing it isn't the end of the world.

 

[74 Harley]

So is the car actually overheating or are you just looking at a 60 year old gauge near the top of its reading? These cars are not known for overheating issues. You say there's slop in the fan. None of my bullet birds had a clutch fan. Why not try a simple fixed fan. No big changes necessary.
You probably should check the actual temperature with a laser temperature gauge when it's reading warm so you really know what it is doing.
By the way, it's a beautiful car!

 

[Frankie the Fink]

SPAL and other fans draw some serious current, so your generator might not be robust enough. I would find the root cause of the issue before I went "medieval" and made non-original mods. Usually over-heating at idle/low speeds is an air flow problem. Here is how you test a clutch fan from one of the premier restorers of same:

Q & A

Maybe take an I/R temp gun and point it at the thermostat housing and radiator hoses to get a better reading during the "hot" incidents. As noted, those old gauges can be notoriously inaccurate.

 

[BigGar]

Thanks for the replies. I'm not going by the gauge really, although it does appear to be reasonably accurate. The coolant boiling over is my main indicator. I have a feeling due to the amount of play in the fan that I have a bad fan clutch. It's a pretty easy repair, keeps things original, and doesn't involve much effort either. I'll try that and see how the temps read with my laser. It's a factory A/C car so I'm pretty sure these did have a fan clutch and shroud as opposed to non A/C versions. I was also a little surprised at it running so warm as well @74 Harley . I had a '66 Ford F100 pickup when I was a kid. I built a nice 390 for it after the 352 gave up the ghost but neither engine ever ran very hot, even in humid Michigan summers. My dad and I bought it in Texas and it had A/C as well (aftermarket). I'll get a correct fan clutch ordered and see how that goes.

 

[74 Harley]

While you are at it, pull the water pump. If it wasn't replaced it could have vanes that are rotted off. I have seen this a couple of times, it does happen. The '62 I dismantled last summer was an accident car without a fan clutch. Not to say it was perfectly original, I don't know.

 

[BigGar]

I might just do that. A few boil overs have left some cosmetic issues with the engine that I want to address before Las Vegas Concours d'Elegance in November. I need to repaint a few areas in there anyway. I'm pretty sure it's all new stuff as it was a pretty thorough appearing and beautiful restoration, but my client also likes to drive his cars. Sometimes the restorers build some pretty trailer queens that aren't ready for prime time on the road. He bought it already done and I don't have a lot of info about the people that did do the work.

 

[74 Harley]

Water pumps are cheap. So are flex fans if you have a problem finding a clutch fan.

 

[Thunder rd]

I have found the best way and cheapest way to get a fan is to measure youre radiator size and mounting call a wrecking yard most have a selection of fans . Factory car fans are highest quality you can buy not Chinese. I have did this on several cars my 60 tbird has one on it.thunder road auto . Be sure to put a relay on any one you chose.

 

[MorrisonAF]

I’m in lake forest if you could ever use a hand!!

 

[BigGar]

I received the new fan clutch from Eckler's and am going to install that first. The old one didn't feel very good at all and there was a lot of play in the fan, like a bad wheel bearing. Thanks for the offer of help @MorrisonAF. If you ever get down this way let me know and I'd be happy to show you the car. He's also got probably one of the nicest F-Code 55's in the world.

 

[MorrisonAF]

Yea man, I just moved to California in November, I work down that way sometimes I’ll message you.. that would be really awesome!