Hauling my '57 in an enclosed car hauler

[dickday0]

I need some advice...
I just bought my first enclosed car hauler. My '57 will now ride in comfort

I bought a 20' trailer and the bird is just over 16'. Since the tie downs are located fore and aft, I think I need basket straps to fit over the tires and are secured either in front of or behind the tires. At least for the front, I think these would take less effort to put on than axle straps.
I'm not sure how these would work on the back since I have skirts on (the car has skirts on, not me). Anyone use basket straps on the rear of a bird that had skirts on? Am I better off using axle straps on the back?
Any reason I can't use axle straps on back and basket straps on the front wheels?
Any and all advice greatly appreciated!

 

[2from93449]

Mike... if this does not adhere to posting guidelines, please remove, no hard feelings

I need some advice...
I just bought my first enclosed car hauler. My '57 will now ride in comfort

I bought a 20' trailer and the bird is just over 16'. Since the tie downs are located fore and aft, I think I need basket straps to fit over the tires and are secured either in front of or behind the tires. At least for the front, I think these would take less effort to put on than axle straps.
I'm not sure how these would work on the back since I have skirts on (the car has skirts on, not me). Anyone use basket straps on the rear of a bird that had skirts on? Am I better off using axle straps on the back?
Any reason I can't use axle straps on back and basket straps on the front wheels?
Any and all advice greatly appreciated!

I use holes in the rear frame, and wrap straps around the frame and tubular cross-member in the front on my 57. I cross the straps front and back, and leave it in park with brake set. My rtrailer is 24 feet long and 8.5 feet wide. I get about 4 inches from the wheel well on the driver's side, slide across and get out feet first on the passenger side using a towel to protect the door edge. I made sure the door would open over the wheel well before buying the trailer. I had planned to use straps around the axles and the holes in the lower A-arm before finding mounting spots described.

 

[dickday0]

I use holes in the rear frame, and wrap straps around the frame and tubular cross-member in the front on my 57. I cross the straps front and back, and leave it in park with brake set. My rtrailer is 24 feet long and 8.5 feet wide. I get about 4 inches from the wheel well on the driver's side, slide across and get out feet first on the passenger side using a towel to protect the door edge. I made sure the door would open over the wheel well before buying the trailer. I had planned to use straps around the axles and the holes in the lower A-arm before finding mounting spots described.

Thank you! When you park just 4" from the wheel well on the driver's side, does that give you plenty of extra on the passenger side? I have not pulled the bird in there yet and, until I see it, don't really have a feel for how much room there will be. If you are hugging the driver's side of the trailer, is it enough distance to that side to cause any weight offset problems when towing?
Again, thank you for such a quick reply!

 

[2from93449]

I hook into holes in the rear frame and wrap straps around the frame and tubular cross member in front on my 57. I cross the straps front and back, leave the car in park, with brake set. I had planned on using straps around the rear axle and lower A-arm before finding the spots mentioned. My trailer is 24 x 8.5, dovetail rear. I crank up the tongue and use jack stands on both sides in the back to load. I pull in about 4" from the driver side wheel well, slide across the seat and get out feet first on the passenger side. Use a towel to protect the door edge. I made sure the door would open over wh

Thank you! When you park just 4" from the wheel well on the driver's side, does that give you plenty of extra on the passenger side? I have not pulled the bird in there yet and, until I see it, don't really have a feel for how much room there will be. If you are hugging the driver's side of the trailer, is it enough distance to that side to cause any weight offset problems when towing?
Again, thank you for such a quick reply!

Weight not an issue. Made sure door would open over wheel well before buying my trailer used on CList. If necessary screw a 2x10 to the floor to get door above wheel well. It is tight but works. Key is wife guiding me in. I store my car in the trailer, weather is mild in SoCal, no moisture issues. I can access the rear of my trailer in the storage yard so I crank up the tongue and use a couple short jack stands to support rear to stabilize loading. Trailer is dovetail rear floor.

 

[dickday0]

I hook into holes in the rear frame and wrap straps around the frame and tubular cross member in front on my 57. I cross the straps front and back, leave the car in park, with brake set. I had planned on using straps around the rear axle and lower A-arm before finding the spots mentioned. My trailer is 24 x 8.5, dovetail rear. I crank up the tongue and use jack stands on both sides in the back to load. I pull in about 4" from the driver side wheel well, slide across the seat and get out feet first on the passenger side. Use a towel to protect the door edge. I made sure the door would open over wh


Weight not an issue. Made sure door would open over wheel well before buying my trailer used on CList. If necessary screw a 2x10 to the floor to get door above wheel well. It is tight but works. Key is wife guiding me in. I store my car in the trailer, weather is mild in SoCal, no moisture issues. I can access the rear of my trailer in the storage yard so I crank up the tongue and use a couple short jack stands to support rear to stabilize loading. Trailer is dovetail rear floor.

We have 20 acres and plan to also store the bird in there over the winter here at our place. I was going to insulate the sides and ceiling to make sure I don't get condensation dropping on the car, but the trailer I ended up with has a finished interior...



I also had planned on 2x10's to get the door open if the wells are too high. Unlike you, we have extreme temps and humidity. We've seen -24f actual temp and 110f. I read that some people buy silica gel in quantity to keep the moisture down in the trailer.

When you load the car for storage, can I assume that you load the car, position the trailer where you want to store it, place jacks on corners and then disconnect? Am I missing something?

Thanks!

 

[2from93449]

We are lucky to have a spot in a storage yard where we can drop our door onto asphalt in the yard next door. I did it once without the jacks and the tongue came up some. I wanted more stability, so started using the jack stands. Even use them when on the hitch, although had loaded and unloaded when hooked without the stands. Cranking the tongue up puts the rear frame firmly on the jack stands. I think you are in good shape with your wheel wells, look the same as on our Look.

 

[2from93449]

Double axle trailer, no use of jack stands other than loading.

 

[Dale Leonard]

Instead of using Silica gell to keep the moisture out, why not install a dehumidifier and run the drain to the outside of the trailer. Then all you have to do is plug it in when you park the trailer. Have it to where you can plug an extension cord up from the outside and use a cord that is heavy enough to handle the load. It will keep it popcorn fart dry and you do not have to keep buying silica gell. Works great in a travel trailer or motor home and keeps the musty smell out of the unit from being closed up.

 

[2from93449]

We have 20 acres and plan to also store the bird in there over the winter here at our place. I was going to insulate the sides and ceiling to make sure I don't get condensation dropping on the car, but the trailer I ended up with has a finished interior...

View attachment 4201

I also had planned on 2x10's to get the door open if the wells are too high. Unlike you, we have extreme temps and humidity. We've seen -24f actual temp and 110f. I read that some people buy silica gel in quantity to keep the moisture down in the trailer.

When you load the car for storage, can I assume that you load the car, position the trailer where you want to store it, place jacks on corners and then disconnect? Am I missing something?

Thanks!

How did you end up with the doors clearing your fender wells? Looking at the pictures, I think you are in good shape.

I wanted to get back to you on the hauling because I recently hauled my car down to LA, and faced some very, very rough spots on the LA freeways (although we pay one hell of a gas tax in CA, the money never seems to get to the roads!!) . The bouncing had loosened the straps a little, so in the future I am going to tie the car down so the suspension on the car can function. I will use some short straps I have (maybe 24" long) to go around the rear spring and axle and hook them to the opposite trailer tie downs (crossing) in the rear. I think in the front I will strap through the hole in the control arm, crossing to tie downs on the trailer. My straps had never loosened at all, even on a twelve hour haul. But, I had read about strapping so that the suspension could work, so will now give that a try.

I don't have power where we store the trailer/car, so the moisture absorbing material will be my first attempt. If that does not work in the winter my wife will have to get used to parking outside at home!!