BLEEDING BRAKES

DEVIL DOG 62

DEVIL DOG 62

Active Member
Last seen
Joined
Jul 31, 2018
Thunderbird Year
1967
A new way for a lot of you to do your brake bleeding from now on.
I know a lot of you are still doing the old fashioned way of having someone pump up the brakes while you bleed the wheel cylinders & keep repeating this process to no avail sometimes.
Get yourself a clear pop bottle or jar so you can see through it.
Get yourself 12-16 piece of rubber hose that fits snugly over the wheel cylinder bleeder nipple.
You might have to make it longer if needed
Loosen up the wheel cylinder bleeder but slightly unloosening & tightening it until it's loose. Don't just crank on it and break it.
Make sure the master cylinder if kept full during this process.
Fill the bottle or jar up half way with brake fluid.
Put the rubber hose on wheel cylinder bleeder nipple & the other end down into the brake fluid of bottle or jar.
Unloosen the wheel cylinder bleeder
Have some one pump up the brake pedal slowly & smoothly until all the air bubbles are gone & only brake fluid is coming through the line.
Tighten the Wheel cylinder bleeder
Do this to all 4 brake wheel cylinders & you will have no air in your brake system
THIS IS THE CORRECT WAY TO BLEED BRAKES WITHOUT USING ONE OF THOSE BRAKE BLEEDING MACHINES OR KITS THAT'S NEVER WORKED FOR ME
Try it next time & give me your feedback
 
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here is what happend to me yesterday, I replaced the two front rubber brake hoses, bled the brakes with one person pumping the brake pedal the old fashioned way, when we were done, pedal had great pressure,
but as soon as I started the car the pedal went to the floor, no brakes!! but when the engine is off, the brakes work,
anybody might what my problem is, ? thanks in advanve
 
here is what happend to me yesterday, I replaced the two front rubber brake hoses, bled the brakes with one person pumping the brake pedal the old fashioned way, when we were done, pedal had great pressure,
but as soon as I started the car the pedal went to the floor, no brakes!! but when the engine is off, the brakes work,
anybody might what my problem is, ? thanks in advanve
Could be an issue with your power booster as well. Though it just sounds like you still got air trapped in the lines somewhere
 
sorry to say that I'm back, but after about 5 minutes of driving the brakes start seizing up and starting to smoke,
losing my mind a little with that thing....
 
sorry to say that I'm back, but after about 5 minutes of driving the brakes start seizing up and starting to smoke,
losing my mind a little with that thing....
Which brakes? Front or rear? If your rear shoes are locking up or seizing it could be that they are too close to the drum. Backing the self adjuster off a tad could help. What brake work did you do anyway?
 
not sure which ones front rims are very hot after 5 minutes of driving,
it started of like this, let 's replace the front wheel rubber brake lines because they look old and cracked,
that worked well, bled brakes etc, pedal pressure was great before I started the engine,
once engine was started pedal went down to the floor,
replaced power booster and master cylinder and on the way home car started to drag and smoke,
adusted pushrod in booster but after 5 min of driving the same things happens.....
 
Seems like something is locking up. Pull the caliper and check. Is it properly disengaging? Nothing stuck right?
 
Poor guy ! At this point I would leave the car to a proffesional brake shop and rather pay the bill.......
 
thanks, but I shall not be defeated yet, gonna turn that booster push rod a few more:cool: turns
 
You need to adjust the booster push rod according to the instructions in the service manual. (unless you have some directions with the disc brakes or the booster. Those would supercede the manual because you don't have a stock brake system) If the rod is not adjusted correctly it could be the reason your brakes are acting wanky.
 
You need to adjust the booster push rod according to the instructions in the service manual. (unless you have some directions with the disc brakes or the booster. Those would supercede the manual because you don't have a stock brake system) If the rod is not adjusted correctly it could be the reason your brakes are acting wanky.
I agree. W hat I did with my booster is put a dab of white grease on the tip of the booster push rod then adjusted it until it only just touched the inside of the master cylinder. It a touch and go thing. If he doesn't get the length right then the brakes would be pressing against the rotors all the time causing the excessive heat build up.
 
I believe the last port inside the master is a equalization port to relieve fluid press, when your foot is off the pedal.
as soon as you push the rod it closes. enabling brake fluid to build press as you push with your foot.
so catch me if im wrong
to change the hoses slight constant pressure on pedal, not harder just holding in 1 spot should stop fluid from running out on its own, this will close that port. and change the hose.?
still bleeding as necessary .
comments?
03 3xblk 33,
 
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