'96 4.6 Running Smooth, but 0-60 is 10-12 seconds too slow than factory

bogartethan03

bogartethan03

Click here to upgrade
Last seen
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Thunderbird Year
1996
I just got a 1996 Ford Thunderbird from an older couple who kept the car at their Vacation home in Florida and was only driven 3 months out of the year. They had it there for about 8 years, and before that it belonged to an old man who bought it new and used it to put around town at 20 mph. It is just about to roll over to 60k miles. I just replaced the intake manifold, fuel filter, PCV valve, front brake pads and rotors, spark plugs and wires. The car runs extremely well at idle, but when you put your foot down, it seems very doggy at first and only tends to pick up speed in 2nd gear. The likelihood of anything being replaced besides what I just replaced is very slim. The 0-60 time is supposed to be around 8 seconds, and we're getting 18-20 seconds each time. Please help, besides being slow, the car is perfect!


MODERATOR NOTE- MAF replacement part on Amazon- https://amzn.to/351ahmL
maf1996.jpg
 

This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

Put fuel injector cleaner in the tank. Clean throttlr body with the correct spray cleaner. My 95 acts like that when gas gets old (mine is a spare vehicle and sits too much)
 
I have a '95 Lincoln with the 4.6 motor, and it's pretty peppy. Why did you replace the intake manifold? And did you replace it with the stock manifold or an aftermarket one?
 
dennis461 said:
Put fuel injector cleaner in the tank. Clean throttlr body with the correct spray cleaner. My 95 acts like that when gas gets old (mine is a spare vehicle and sits too much)
Click to expand...
What is the correct spray?
 
64ZCODE said:
I have a '95 Lincoln with the 4.6 motor, and it's pretty peppy. Why did you replace the intake manifold? And did you replace it with the stock manifold or an aftermarket one?
Click to expand...
It cracked in the front and was spraying coolant everywhere. It was an aftermarket one but it's only supposed to fix the cracking issue, I don't believe it's high performance
 
Check codes, any present or stored? Double check your MAF sensor.
Not sure if it’s heat related but when I had my 97 we lived in Florida and it ended up with a cracked intake also.
 
40birds said:
Check codes, any present or stored? Double check your MAF sensor.
Not sure if it’s heat related but when I had my 97 we lived in Florida and it ended up with a cracked intake also.
Click to expand...
Yes, it has the codes attached below. Apparently it's had a check engine light since it rolled off the lot and it kept coming back even after the dealership looked at it. And I sprayed MAF sensor cleaner on it, but maybe it's beyond repair?Screenshot_20190702-175316.pngScreenshot_20190702-175321.png
 
The lean codes looks to me like a vacuum leak common to all cylinders, meaning after the MAF sensor and before the air splits to cylinder head intakes. It could be a cracked or loose hose or intake did nor seat properly.

The EVAP code could be related, make sure the purge solenoid closes completely. It could be worn out.

And by 'correct cleaner' I mean use one that specifically states where it is used. for example, MAF cleaner should only be used on the MAF.

By the way, I downloaded some great OBDII software some years ago which is Ford specific, called FORscan. It will show MAF flow, Throttle position, fuel mixture, EVAP pressure and flow. Makes a shade tree mechanic sound like a pro.
 
Last edited:
dennis461 said:
The lean codes looks to me like a vacuum leak common to all cylinders, meaning after the MAF sensor and before the air splits to cylinder head intakes. It could be a cracked or loose hose or intake did nor seat properly.

The EVAP code could be related, make sure the purge solenoid closes completely. It could be worn out.

And by 'correct cleaner' I mean use one that specifically states where it is used. for example, MAF cleaner should only be used on the MAF.
Click to expand...
Okay, thanks. How can I check the purge solenoid, and where is it located? Also, how can I track down/locate a vacuum leak? I appreciate all the help, thank you so much to all!
 
Well myself I would probably unplug it and see how it runs. Also as Dennis said the correct cleaner is imperative as regular cleaners can ruin the sensor. I would still be double checking to see the intake seated properly with no leaks, no cracked hoses, vac lines etc.
 
40birds said:
Well myself I would probably unplug it and see how it runs. Also as Dennis said the correct cleaner is imperative as regular cleaners can ruin the sensor. I would still be double checking to see the intake seated properly with no leaks, no cracked hoses, vac lines etc.
Click to expand...
I just read this post, and you solved the problem before me haha. I was cleaning the engine bay and took out to air intake tube and got the MAF sensor wet and damaged it even more, and when I ran it, it would bog down when I tried to rev it. I unplugged it and it ran like a new car. I got a new MAF sensor in today and it is running like a brand new car. Thanks for all the help! Now i just have to chase down the EVAP code...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top