64 booster removal

[Clickthepirate]

Hi all I am semi new to the early Tbird world, I am having a hard time getting to the inside bolts on the booster. I got to the outside (far left) but the inside (far right), I just can not see. My car is an A/C, P/S and CC car so there is a ton of things under the dash blocking my view of the location of these nuts.

Does anyone know a cheat or easier way to access these nuts? I have a good chunk of the dash pulled apartl and still cant see them, Will I need to remove the instrument cluster to access these?

 

[Dj-Dan]

Hi all I am semi new to the early Tbird world, I am having a hard time getting to the inside bolts on the booster. I got to the outside (far left) but the inside (far right), I just can not see. My car is an A/C, P/S and CC car so there is a ton of things under the dash blocking my view of the location of these nuts.

Does anyone know a cheat or easier way to access these nuts? I have a good chunk of the dash pulled apartl and still cant see them, Will I need to remove the instrument cluster to access these?

I re-did every part of my braking system on my 64 T-Bird. I am a Big guy and I found it easy to remove front seat and lay flat underneath dash and take off the nuts. Make sure you pop off the peddle c-clip. Before removing booster, I strongly suggest measuring the rod coming out of booster. You will need an accurate measurement when putting anything new in it's place. Booster, master cylinder.etc.. I didn't have to take the dash board apart .

 

[Dale Leonard]

Hi all I am semi new to the early Tbird world, I am having a hard time getting to the inside bolts on the booster. I got to the outside (far left) but the inside (far right), I just can not see. My car is an A/C, P/S and CC car so there is a ton of things under the dash blocking my view of the location of these nuts.

Does anyone know a cheat or easier way to access these nuts? I have a good chunk of the dash pulled apartl and still cant see them, Will I need to remove the instrument cluster to access these?

Lay down on your back, on the drivers side floorboard and shine a flashlight up behind the brake pedal. And you will see 4 nuts on threaded rod sticking from the firewall. It should either be a 1/2" or a 9/16" combination wrench. These aare the 4 nuts that you need to remove.

 

[Clickthepirate]

I re-did every part of my braking system on my 64 T-Bird. I am a Big guy and I found it easy to remove front seat and lay flat underneath dash and take off the nuts. Make sure you pop off the peddle c-clip. Before removing booster, I strongly suggest measuring the rod coming out of booster. You will need an accurate measurement when putting anything new in it's place. Booster, master cylinder.etc.. I didn't have to take the dash board apart .

Thanks are the seats bolted through the bottom? I have not taken the drivers side cover off yet, but the passenger side looks to be done that way.

 

[Dj-Dan]

Yes, bolts go through to bottom. It makes life a lot easier to take that driver seat out.

 

[stevetheweave1]

Since the Covid ordeal I have not been able to attend my Pilates and Yoga classes. Lol I am unable to fold myself in half even with seat out of car to the point where I can remove 4 bolts from inside of cabin area. I would like to buy a new brake booster duel master cylinder combination and install on my car. Here’s the meat and potatoes of the question can I unbolt the brake booster and master cylinder from bracket inside engine compartment instead thus leaving bracket on firewall?

 

[Daveya]

I undid the bolts with an articulating joint on a ratchet extension but I used my wife to replace the bolts as I could not . She used a extendable magnet to get the nuts in the right place and her itty bitty fingers to thread it on. Yes it really sucks.

 

[thunder2010]

I havent looked at mine but I have changed them on ford trucks and you leave the braket on. just a small adjustable rod between the booster and the pedal and it should pull away from that with no problem...if I get out to the garage today I will check my 64

 

[biddle]

Since the Covid ordeal I have not been able to attend my Pilates and Yoga classes. Lol I am unable to fold myself in half even with seat out of car to the point where I can remove 4 bolts from inside of cabin area. I would like to buy a new brake booster duel master cylinder combination and install on my car. Here’s the meat and potatoes of the question can I unbolt the brake booster and master cylinder from bracket inside engine compartment instead thus leaving bracket on firewall?

I merged this with an existing topic. Try using the website search feature, or the related threads when you are posting.

 

[stevetheweave1]

Biddle thanks for the merging with a 2 yr old post. Believe me I have searched for my answer to “has anyone changed brake booster by removing bracket nuts in engine compartment instead of removing nuts under dash?” I have not seen a response to anyone who has tried before I attempt to try it myself. I have read numerous posts on the difficulty involved and I am looking fo an easier way.

 

[Ward 57]

I think your only solution is to shrink. LOL Thank heavens I'm only 5'6" and 135 lb. I still have trouble getting under the dash of my '57. I'd get an articulating mechanic's mirror and see if you can identify where they are and if you can at least get your hands up there and practice undoing and threading bolts and nuts blind and from the back. Your fingers need to be your eyes. It's a skill you will never regret learning.

 

[Poppy Red]

If the booster is the Midland Ross type, the bolts that hold the booster to the firewall are studs pressed into the bracket on the engine side. You have to remove the nuts from under the dash. As noted above, I found it much easier to remove the driver's seat, (4nuts) and also the safety neutral bracket on the steering column. Then, you can get in there with a good light, a long extension, a universal and the socket that fits the nuts, either a 1/2" or 9/16" .

Getting the nuts back on after changing the booster is much easier if you put a wad of sticky tape in the socket so it will hold the nut so it is flush with the end of the socket, That way you can see/feel when you have it on the stud and started.
I've had the booster for my '66 in and out 3 times. Problems with the re-build. So good at it now, I can remove or re-install it in half an hour.