57 dash light rheostat

Ward 57

Ward 57

Active Member
Last seen
Joined
Aug 14, 2019
Thunderbird Year
1957
Has anybody found how to reactivate the dash light rheostat? I know they are prone to fail on a regular basis. I replaced the switch once and it worked for a few years then had to start swiping the switch back and fourth to clean the contacts and that only worked for a while. can the contacts be refurbished or time for a new switch?
 
Has anybody found how to reactivate the dash light rheostat? I know they are prone to fail on a regular basis. I replaced the switch once and it worked for a few years then had to start swiping the switch back and fourth to clean the contacts and that only worked for a while. can the contacts be refurbished or time for a new switch?
Use a jumper wire. You won't be able to dim the lights anymore but they will work fine.
 
Has anybody found how to reactivate the dash light rheostat? I know they are prone to fail on a regular basis. I replaced the switch once and it worked for a few years then had to start swiping the switch back and fourth to clean the contacts and that only worked for a while. can the contacts be refurbished or time for a new switch?
you could try some dialectic grease on that coil
 
Has anybody found how to reactivate the dash light rheostat? I know they are prone to fail on a regular basis. I replaced the switch once and it worked for a few years then had to start swiping the switch back and fourth to clean the contacts and that only worked for a while. can the contacts be refurbished or time for a new switch?
If you have replaced the light switch in the past you have seen the dash lighr dimmer is a wire wound resistor. they are small gauge wire with current running through it. I used to regularly go to wrecking yards and collect the resistors. Unfortunately those days are gone. I always had the dash lights on full all the time. What zi did was jump the terminal with a duplex terminal so that when the exterior lights are on the dash is also full on. Cost is less than $2; short wire, 2 crimp on spade connectors, and a duplex spade connector. Replacement switches are availble for just north of $50. You can choose which option you like best. I suppose there could be a third option. wire in a separate varistor for controlling the brightness of the dash lights. Have fun, J.
 
The rheostat for the dash lights is the weakest part of the headlight switch. The problem is that oxidation builds up on the small spring tip and the inner mechanism of the switch. This oxidation is the result of infrequent use, because most of us rarely drive our cars at night.

On my Thunderbird I bypassed the rheostat using the duplex spade connector and the short wire. I found it much easier than soldering a bypass connection as suggested in the attached link.


If you choose to bypass the rheostat the dash lights will have full illumination without the benefit of dimming control.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
I'm replacing a few light bulbs so I'll try the dielectric grease on the rheostat as well as the bulbs, If that doesn't work I'll bypass it. I have the wire and female insulated spade connectors but why the duplex male spades?
Oh I think I've got it. The male spades on the switch feed the dash lights so I need an empty spade for the jumper wire, correct? I haven't looked at the switch closely to confirm.
 
I was able to disassemble mine and clean up the contact areas. works much better.
 
I was able to disassemble mine and clean up the contact areas. works much better.
ARggh. After fussing around under the dash My courtesy light fuse on the switch keeps blowing, I think I found a bullet connector hanging loose by hand as when I flip the switch to turn on the courtesy it blows the fuse It works fine with the door switch. Pulled a wire to the radio speaker loose from the radio connector ( not the first time ), and having a tough time hitting the button to release the switch knob. Time to pull the radio and find out what's going on under there. It's like household plumbing Once you futz with one connection it affects everything else down the line.
 
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I have a success story with almost no labor. I'm a small guy so I fit under the dash pretty well. On a hunch I grabbed my can of PB Blaster and with a mirror I was able to get the straw right up to the rheostat coil and gave it a couple of shots. A few rotations of the switch and voila! I now have adjustable dash lights.
 
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