1956 Fuel Pump Investigation

CtCarGuy

CtCarGuy

Active Member
Last seen
Joined
Aug 10, 2015
Thunderbird Year
1965
I decided to find out why all of the new fuel pumps I and others are getting are defective. I took a "pre-tested" pump I put in last year that lasted about 10 minutes, and took it apart.
1. The bottom bowl was clean and the diaphragm looked new. No debris and the valves look good.
2. Opened up the pump portion and the bowl was clean and the diaphragm was like new.
3. I pulled the pump diaphragm out and found the area behind it full of oil.
4. When I removed the diaphragm, the oil seal stayed in the pump. I am not sure if these use a retainer to keep the spring and seal on the shaft, but this did not have one.
5. The oil seal had silver colored residue.

My preliminary opinion is that the oil seals fail and oil collected behind the diaphragm resulting it being unable to flex. I also think there is a problem with either the shaft or lever metal. I should not have been able to remove the diaphragm without removing the lever. I did note that prior to disassembly, the lever hardly moved by hand. Thoughts?
 

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I decided to find out why all of the new fuel pumps I and others are getting are defective. I took a "pre-tested" pump I put in last year that lasted about 10 minutes, and took it apart.
1. The bottom bowl was clean and the diaphragm looked new. No debris and the valves look good.
2. Opened up the pump portion and the bowl was clean and the diaphragm was like new.
3. I pulled the pump diaphragm out and found the area behind it full of oil.
4. When I removed the diaphragm, the oil seal stayed in the pump. I am not sure if these use a retainer to keep the spring and seal on the shaft, but this did not have one.
5. The oil seal had silver colored residue.

My preliminary opinion is that the oil seals fail and oil collected behind the diaphragm resulting it being unable to flex. I also think there is a problem with either the shaft or lever metal. I should not have been able to remove the diaphragm without removing the lever. I did note that prior to disassembly, the lever hardly moved by hand. Thoughts?
All I can ad is that you have found a problem with pumps improperly designed. $ over quality reigns overseas.
 
I've read that fuel pumps that are made in U.S., Mexico, and South Korea are okay, but avoid pumps made in China. Casco will buy used pumps that were made in US and Mexico for $50. They rebuild those pumps and sell.
 
I decided to find out why all of the new fuel pumps I and others are getting are defective. I took a "pre-tested" pump I put in last year that lasted about 10 minutes, and took it apart.
1. The bottom bowl was clean and the diaphragm looked new. No debris and the valves look good.
2. Opened up the pump portion and the bowl was clean and the diaphragm was like new.
3. I pulled the pump diaphragm out and found the area behind it full of oil.
4. When I removed the diaphragm, the oil seal stayed in the pump. I am not sure if these use a retainer to keep the spring and seal on the shaft, but this did not have one.
5. The oil seal had silver colored residue.

My preliminary opinion is that the oil seals fail and oil collected behind the diaphragm resulting it being unable to flex. I also think there is a problem with either the shaft or lever metal. I should not have been able to remove the diaphragm without removing the lever. I did note that prior to disassembly, the lever hardly moved by hand. Thoughts?
I went through this same process and found that all the available pumps are simply junk! I had the original pump and sent it to Arthur Gould Rebuilding in MS and it was the best $75 I’ve ever spend. I also added a electric back up pump, but only need that if the car sits for more than 3 days without being started. They make an anti siphon valve, and I tried it but fouls that it would interfere with fuel flow.
 
Update: I was considering rebuilding this pump but unless I am mistaken, there is supposed got be 2 clips that need to be removed in order to get the pivot pin out. I took some pictures and it seems there are no clips? I tried pressing the shaft out but it does not seem to move much.This does not seem rebuildable. I may have to find a US made pump. Anyone know who makes one?
 

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I've read that fuel pumps that are made in U.S., Mexico, and South Korea are okay, but avoid pumps made in China. Casco will buy used pumps that were made in US and Mexico for $50. They rebuild those pumps and sell.
Yeah for $220!
 
Update: I was considering rebuilding this pump but unless I am mistaken, there is supposed got be 2 clips that need to be removed in order to get the pivot pin out. I took some pictures and it seems there are no clips? I tried pressing the shaft out but it does not seem to move much.This does not seem rebuildable. I may have to find a US made pump. Anyone know who makes one?
That pin does press out, but it only come out one way. No pin to hold it in place as the end of the pin is center punched to keep it in place.
 
Yeah for $220!
That sounds about right. But if you want a reliable close to original, It's worth the price.
I hope the people who commissioned the cheap Chinese, knock offs got bit in the behind and learned their lesson. Yes the car people will spend good $ for good stuff, but we talk and put out good knowledge on stuff that isn't worth scrap metal.
 
Has anyone had issues with the pumps that CASCO sells?
the remanufactured ones that they send out to be done
 
Sounds like a good idea. Do you remember who it was? I will try to get this pump back together but if not, I will buy a new one, test it and if needed send it out. THX
 
Sounds like a good idea. Do you remember who it was? I will try to get this pump back together but if not, I will buy a new one, test it and if needed send it out. THX
I had original AC pump rebuilt by a local classic Mustang Shop. Same with my booster. I supplied the kits and he did the work. Both have never worked better.
 
Sounds like a good idea. Do you remember who it was? I will try to get this pump back together but if not, I will buy a new one, test it and if needed send it out. THX
The company is Arthur Gould Rebuilders. 508-210-0891. They have a web site. been in business a long time.
 
UPDATE: I decided there is no such thing as a good one. I have bought 5 from different sources and none work. The last one was from NAPA where I work. I put it in my vise and moved the lever up and down to see if there was any suction. None! I have a friend with an original AC pump that I am going to have rebuilt. Expensive but at least it will work. For now, driving using the electric pump.:
 
I've rebuilt a bunch of them but even the rebuild kits are getting dicey, many have overly thick diaphragm rubber and springs that cause over-pressure when put in operation. Also amateur rebuilders often forget an important step, you hvae to fully distend the diaphragm when doing the final tightening of the peripheral screws.....many use a piece of PVC pipe over the actuator arm to do this... Failure to do take this critical action shortens the life of the pump considerably.
 
Has anyone had issues with the pumps that CASCO sells?
the remanufactured ones that they send out to be done
I just installed a CASCO fuel pump 3-days ago. Have taken a couple of test drives and it has solved my problem. I’m confident that it will be reliable and restore my wife’s confidence in the car.
 

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I am sorry to have to add to this thread; installed a CASCO rebuilt fuel pump this week and it is dead-on arrival. Contemplating sending my original to Arthur Gould Rebuilders.
 
You won’t regret your decision to go with Arthur Gould Rebuilding. They are “Top Knotch” in my book! I did however add the CASCO electric fuel pump as a back up. Installed and mounted as per their instructions. This all being completed and my wife too has new trust in taking our car out for a relaxing drive.
 
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I agree 100%. I changed the fuel pump on my '56 3 years ago and it failed almost immediately. Since then I bought 4 more new pumps and not one worked. I ran using my electric pump until I could figure out the problem. I checked the fuel lines and no problems. A friend had a couple of OEM used AC fuel pumps. I sent one to Arthur Gould in Hayden MA. Got it back in about a week. Other than the location of the output connection being a little different, it went in easily. Hit the starter and had about 2 psi pressure immediately. Car runs great now. He will not rebuild other pumps since most are imported. Look for the AC logo on the top and slotted screws. Price was actually less than the "new" pumps. Hope this helps.
 
Most any pump made in the U.S.A., Canada or Mexico are usually good candidates for a rebuild.
 
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