57 passenger door fit

Ward 57

Ward 57

Active Member
Last seen
Joined
Aug 14, 2019
Thunderbird Year
1957
I have a 57 Tbird, and the passenger door doesn't fit properly. The front edge rear top fit flush but the bottom rear flares out 1\8 inch from the door handle down. There appears to not have had any body work in this area. Also I have to replace the glass for a second time as the inner laminate has spontaneously cracked and has sevreral cracks but the outer layer is unbroken. Any clues as to what's going on?
 
Sounds like to me the door at one time was distorted maybe opened to hard or the wind may of caught it.and with the glass problem.if the door is distorted it may be putting the glass in a bind causing it to separate. sounds like you will have to replace the door.if you do end up replacing the door I have some.
 
The flare out at the bottom of the T-Bird doors is often found to be caused by the bottom weather strip causing it to bend out. Some people remove the lower weather strip at the bottom of the door.

W/r to the glass, I have never heard of that before. Someone else will have to offer suggestions on that issue.
 
loosen the latch on the door frame, push it all the in and up then retighten, this should pull the door back into place. you may have to di this every now and again because they loosen and give way.
 
I have a 57 Tbird, and the passenger door doesn't fit properly. The front edge rear top fit flush but the bottom rear flares out 1\8 inch from the door handle down. There appears to not have had any body work in this area. Also I have to replace the glass for a second time as the inner laminate has spontaneously cracked and has sevreral cracks but the outer layer is unbroken. Any clues as to what's going on?
This is a very common problem. The door is relatively heavy and even a bit heavier if you have power windows. . The factory door alignment tool was a 2x4. I have adjusted the doors on my 57 Ranch wagon using a 2x4 before painting and installing door seals. If the door is out at the bottom then a block at the top between the door and the door frame and then with your hands grip the door at the top and the bottom and push in on the bottom to attempt to tweak it in at the bottom. Before you use the metod to adjust your door check to see if the hinge pins are worn allowing the door to sag. This is more commonly associated with the drivers door do to it seeing much more use than the passenger side. good luck.
 
Twisted, it's a common problem. Fixable just takes finesse and patience. If no patience or finesse it'll eff up the paint
 
The flare out at the bottom of the T-Bird doors is often found to be caused by the bottom weather strip causing it to bend out. Some people remove the lower weather strip at the bottom of the door.

W/r to the glass, I have never heard of that before. Someone else will have to offer suggestions on that issue.
Excellent advice. I took a look at the weather stripping and it appears to have shifted and bulged at the bottom. I can push on the door and it pushes back. As I stated before the front and top rear align perfectly. As I need to tear into the door anyway to replace the glass and lube the power window gears I'll pay attention to that weather strip. It makes sense. I'm pretty Shure the stress of the warp is causing the glass to crack. I'll address that before I replace the glass AGAIN! Thanks!
 
Just as a sidebar; all three years use the same door weatherstripping. Yes I know that the 57 door looks different. When you open the door you will see a piece of sheetmetal screwed to the door under the curve that the weatherstripping follows. It is that piece that allows the same weatherstrip to follow. That saved new molding dies for the weatherstripping for a relatively low volume car.
 
loosen the latch on the door frame, push it all the in and up then retighten, this should pull the door back into place. you may have to di this every now and again because they loosen and give way.
That's a problem I'm having. I adjust the striker plate in and the maladjustment almost disappears. Then it slowly moves back to where it was. I even used an impact screw driver to set the screws. It's like the backing plate behind the jam that the screws go into isn't moving with the striker.
 
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That's a problem I'm having. I adjust the striker plate in and the maladjustment almost disappears. Then it slowly moves back to where it was. I even used an impact screw driver to set the screws. It's like the backing plate behind the jam that the screws go into isn't moving with the striker.
I have thought about removing one bolt at a time and applying loctite to the threads and retighten, may last longer.
 
I have a 57 Tbird, and the passenger door doesn't fit properly. The front edge rear top fit flush but the bottom rear flares out 1\8 inch from the door handle down. There appears to not have had any body work in this area. Also I have to replace the glass for a second time as the inner laminate has spontaneously cracked and has sevreral cracks but the outer layer is unbroken. Any clues as to what's going on?
My assumption is that other than adjustment of the alignment there are no weird issues. Years ago I wrote instructions on this issue that were published.

1) remove the door panel to give access to the door hinge adjustment bolts.
2) remove your door sill plate to avoid damage.
3) with the door closed, loosen the door hinge adjustment bolts. They only need to be a little loose. You will now be able to make adjustments of the door alignment while the door is closed. To avoid paint chipping it is best to have a partner help. Before you begin the adjustments place folded newspaper under the bottom of the door on the front and rear edge; the folded paper should be resting between the top of the door sill area and the underside of your door. By making changes to the thickness of the paper you will be able to make adjustments that should line everything up per the book. Tighten the hinge bolts and you should be good to go.
 
My passenger door does not close tightly. You can push it in but the latch will not hold it in place. I can not see where an adjustment could be made on the strike plate or the latch. What’s the solution to this problem?
 
My passenger door does not close tightly. You can push it in but the latch will not hold it in place. I can not see where an adjustment could be made on the strike plate or the latch. What’s the solution to this problem?
Loosen the latch on the door frame and push it inward, then retighten the three screws.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Left Door Striker.jpg
 
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I adjusted the striker so the top of the door fits. Hammered in the screws with an impact driver then hand torqued them to set. Had not done that before. The door still bulges at the rear lower area, unless there is a way to bend the door I'll live with it explaining that the factory had the same issues. It's a driver and not a points achiever at concurs I'll live with it.
 
I adjusted the striker so the top of the door fits. Hammered in the screws with an impact driver then hand torqued them to set. Had not done that before. The door still bulges at the rear lower area, unless there is a way to bend the door I'll live with it explaining that the factory had the same issues. It's a driver and not a points achiever at concurs I'll live with it.
A common issue that the lower rear corner of the doors will be slightly proud from the body. Some judicioous use of a 2x4 can improve the fit. Before painting my '57 Ranch Wagon I "set" the doors using a nice 2x4. The result is that the doors fit nicely with the body contour.
 
Just a thought since no body bought it up, these doors and body panels do not line up like you would expect from a modern car.
Some of the fitment and gaps are pretty crude. I'm not saying they can't be improved with some finesse just not perfect.
Tom
 
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