Top Issue- 02-05 Ford Thunderbird Ignition Coils COP

I get a random short misfire sometimes. I think it is most likely a coil, but which one. I do not get a check light. Does anyone know how to find that culprit that is starting to go bad. I hate to replace all if I only have one that is bad
 
I get a random short misfire sometimes. I think it is most likely a coil, but which one. I do not get a check light. Does anyone know how to find that culprit that is starting to go bad. I hate to replace all if I only have one that is bad
You get all 8 coils for less than 60 bucks----->https://amzn.to/2Rfp5Zd
Change them all while you are in there, and your spark plugs, so you don't have to keep doing it. Also, make sure your cowl seal isn't a problem or valve cover gasket. Read more about that in this post- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...ird-ignition-coils-cop.5040/page-5#post-38169
 
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2004 w/23k miles. Only had it about 5 months and have put a tad over 3k miles on it. Went to go on a lunch trip yesterday morning; she started fine (as usual), drove about 2 miles and noticed that the engine light had come on. I had reset it about a week after I bought it; code showed gas cap issue (replaced by previous owner 4k miles ago). About 125 miles into the drive, it started "missing" under a load (uphill climbs). Based on my research here, I'd already purchased a set of COPs and plugs when I first bought it. Before I start, I figured I'd see if there were any advice from folks here who had already done this job. Is there anything else I should replace while I'm already that deep into the plastic removal process? Appreciate any ideas and/or suggestions.
 
2002-2005 Ford Thunderbird and Lincoln LS have a widely known issue with Ignition coils going bad and also fouling out spark plugs causing misfires
. Just by replacing these components, you may be able to bring new life to your engine!

At the time of this post, 59.30 for an entire set of Ignition Coils! Can't beat that! If you have a 2002-2005 Ford Thunderbird I would buy these just to have on hand because of the history of these going bad! Don't forget to order 8 spark plugs too because the coils foul them out!

UPDATE April 2020
Here is the link for the updated part as of 04/2020 that fits better with the valve cover- https://amzn.to/2RaLkj2 previously everyone was ordering parts galaxy which works, but is a tight fit. https://amzn.to/31CezPd

There is a post here on how to replace or here.

Important- You may also have a problem with your cowl seal, wiper seal etc, which is causing the coils to fail! You can read more about that in this post. If you have coils problems after a few days/weeks/months it's likely not the coil, but an additional problem.

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If i may add a word of advice, i bought and installed this same set of COPs and Plugs in my 2004 and although it improved performance, i was still pulling a code that said "missfire cylinder 4". Turned out that the intake manifold gasket above cylinder 4 had failed and it was sucking air in right there. A good mechanic down the street sorted that out in 30 minutes, after i replaced the #4 cylinder sets twice. My advice is while you are in there replacing, check all around the seals to see if you see any premature wear. You may find a problem getting ready to happen.
 
Turned out that the intake manifold gasket above cylinder 4 had failed and it was sucking air in right there.
Yes, this is mentioned in post #1 you quoted as Valve Cover Gaskets -
 
No fear here. Engine suddenly started running badly, check engine light, code reader said coil "G" (number 7), driver's side. Armed with all the knowledge and info from our forum, I swapped out the coil pack in about 2 hours, cleared the code and went for a spirited test drive - and all is well again!

Forgot to mention! I noticed that the connector to the coil pack was loose. Whatever clip was supposed to be holding it on firmly was not engaging anymore. I fashioned together two zip ties, looped it around the coil and the clip and snugged it up and vahwala nice and tight. Checked and found the same problem on #8 and zip tied that one too. (Duct tape is for the weak - zip ties rule!)
 
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No fear here. Engine suddenly started running badly, check engine light, code reader said coil "G" (number 7), driver's side. Armed with all the knowledge and info from our forum, I swapped out the coil pack in about 2 hours, cleared the code and went for a spirited test drive - and all is well again!
I agree. This forum has been great since I got my 2003 Tbird last year. Especially this thread. Been a few weeks since I replaced the coils and plugs and she is running beautifully! Kind of surprised people are having problems with the cover. Maybe I was lucky. Hopefully everyone who replaces the coils enjoy their rides!
 
Kind of surprised people are having problems with the cover. Maybe I was lucky.
No, most people don't have an issue and the reviews also reflect this as well.
 
I want to thank the forum and the members for all the information on the cop problems and the document that explained how to replace them. My 2002 bird is original to my wife and I. It has been our go to summer car and have enjoyed it for 18 years. This year after it's winter sleep it started to miss and strain on hills. Since there are not a lot of mechanics that see these cars I went to the forum. Was I surprised for all the help. I would like to give a quick update on the progress and final result. I can do some car repairs and with that I felt with a little coaching I could fix the problem. The recent cops at Amazon were great as was the price. I purchase the plugs at the same time and dielectric grease. Following the process in one of the posts it took a Saturday of a few knuckles scraped and a little sore back but the job is done and the Bird runs wonderful. The new coils were a little taller but not much. Is was mostly the connector. If you are careful and follow the process of starting in the middle two screws and work to the outside several times the cover seats well. Thank you to tbird for the April 2020 update so I did not have the difficulty with the cover. Also, thank you to the forum again for all the helpful information.
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My wife has a 2004 T-Bird with 24k miles. She backed out of the garage this morning and said the car was shaking and the dash light that looks like a wrench came on. A couple hours later I took the car for a test drive and it ran fine. I checked the ODB II codes and found no errors but it had 2 pending; P2107 and P2110. I've read about the COP issues and was wondering if this could be my problem?

Thanks,

Ken
 
My wife has a 2004 T-Bird with 24k miles. She backed out of the garage this morning and said the car was shaking and the dash light that looks like a wrench came on. A couple hours later I took the car for a test drive and it ran fine. I checked the ODB II codes and found no errors but it had 2 pending; P2107 and P2110. I've read about the COP issues and was wondering if this could be my problem?

Thanks,

Ken
See this post- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...hunderbird-ignition-coils-cop.5040/post-51341


To replace.COPS read post #1 https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...-05-ford-thunderbird-ignition-coils-cop.5040/
 
Decided to change COPs and spark plugs and ran into a couple of issues. No problems (except tiny spaces) with the COPs, other than I mistakenly ordered the "boots" and not the entire COPs. Went online and ordered the entire COPs from Amazon. Decided to go ahead and change the plugs (already had a set of NGK 7090 - BLR5EGP). Used an air gun to blow out the spark plug cavities before removal of plugs. Based on the new NGK, I grabbed a 5/8" 1/2" drive deep well socket. Can't seem to get the 5/8" socket to fit onto the existing plugs in the engine. Any suggestions? Thanks!!

The 5/8" socket is a thin wall and easily drops into the spark plug tube hole, but does not engage the existing plug base for removal.


--UPDATE--
Got it!!!!!!! I removed the rubber insert from the socket and was able to unscrew the plug; then used a "claw" to pull the plug out of the tube. Then I misplaced the rubber insert; grrrrr *^$&#@* Thanks to all of you for your input!!!!! COPs easy!! Spark plugs - not so much!!!
 
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I made the switch after the OEM parts began to fail. I did the recommended coils and plugs-they made all the difference! The car runs like new! I have driven it now for a few months, very impressed with the improved performance. Thanks for the tip, and the link to these parts!
 
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Let me start with saying I was having an issue that blasted things off and opened more issues. The first was I have been getting several Engine Codes (P0112, P0120, and P0122) of and on for a while. These seem to be related to the IAT and the Mass Airflow Sensor. I starting looking at things like the sensors, wiring, and plugs. Being that I have a K&N CAI Systeem on my Bird I looked at the MAS mounting. BINGO! I saw the spacer and gasket had warped and was leaking air past the Mass Airflow Sensor and thus setting off the computer to throw these Codes. I was able the straighten the spacer with the use on a Heat Gun. Well that fixed that and I am not getting the Codes any longer. But on the test drive, with only 21,000 miles on this 16 year old car, the engine started sputtering and missing. Being a somewhat proactive guy I was prepared so I decided to change out the COPS and Plugs to see if that would correct the issue. I have heard from other Bird owners changing them might make a difference. Not a real hard job. Just one screw from the left COP Cover under the Brake Booster can be a bear. Everything looked good until I checked Sparkplugs Gap, The Gap is suppose to be 0.44, but these plugs were from 0.28 to 0.48. No wonder it ran like a junker. After completion I went for a ride an WOW what a change! A totally different, new feeling, car! No more stutter-n-sputter. What a wonderful responsive motor. I'm in love again!!!! So if your Birds is of that certain age and maybe not that responsive try giving the old girl a new set of COPS and Plugs. The total cost was less than a hundred bucks. A cheap fix.
 
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I have been following the forums for a couple months since getting my 2002 end of September. Very informative. Since then I read about top care and bought the recommended care kit. I read with horror about the exploding spare tire and immediately pulled my original out of the trunk and replaced with a new tire for about $60... quick easy fix. I had the car put on a lift and had the brace bolts torqued to 46. One bolt turned 1/2 turn, anotherturned 3/4 turn. Car with top down went from Feeling like it would fold in half when it hit a bump, to feeling tighter than with hard top on. All tips from different posts. Many thanks to you all.

I also read with great interest the posts about The coils and plugs and bought all the recommended parts and tools to try to tackle that job one day soon. Mine did have an issue while under top gear slight acceleration, a skipping that was probably a sign of a coil or plug that was needing replacement. Then about a week ago, I finally got the check engine light that I had been anticipating. And it was running especially rough. So here’s what I might be able to share that might help someone else....Autozone let me use their code reader to plug in and then bring inside to them to print out cause. It said small leak, evap system. They kinda scratched their head and said that could be about anything, and they couldn’t turn off the light for me. But this really nice lady at the desk pulled me aside and said buy a $16 gas cap, take the gasket, really an O ring, off the new one, put it on the one tethered to the car, and wait 100 miles and like magic all would be well. I figured $16 was not a bad investment to see if she knew her stuff. So far so good. No light, the car runs better than it has since I got it. No missing in top gear. I’ll still replace the plugs and coils at some point just to know they are fresh, but maybe an 18 year old O ring is causing someone to have an issue. Hope it helps someone and I can pay it forward like that nice lady at Autozone did for me.
 
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