1955 delayed shifting after carburetor rebuild

[Selfrich]

I rebuilt my carburetor on my 292 with a automatic trans, which is a 600 CFM Holley, and replaced the springs on the linkage, It shifted fine before the rebuild, now there is a delay shifting into 3rd. The RPMs are around 2k before it will shift. I am thinking my springs are too strong. I did not change the linkage screw adjustments. I have researched the internet and there seems to be two choices - 1. that my springs are too strong or 2. the tension on the transmission rod is to much. I did not change the rods.

I bought 2 new springs for the accelerator and used the same spring on the front.

Any help would be appreciated. I don't want to abuse the trans.

The first picture is the after rebuild. (carb.jpg) Notice the 2 springs vs. 1 in the second picture.

 

[doug7740]

Here are the instructions that I posted:

Holes for the throttle linkage adjustment are provided in the accelerator assembly mounting bracket.

Disconnect the throttle control rod from the transmission control to the accelerator assembly at the attaching pin. Insert a 1/4 inch drill bit through the holes at point “A”. Adjust the length of the carburetor connecting link to close the carburetor against its stop.

Adjust the accelerator assembly connecting link to obtain a pedal height of 4¼ inches. Remove the drill bit and check the alignment at point “A”. The drill bit must re-enter the holes freely.

Remove the drill bit and then adjust the throttle control rod. Pull upward on the throttle control rod to hold the transmission lever against its internal stop. Rotate the clevis until the attaching pin freely fits in the transmission control to the accelerator shaft assembly. Lengthen the throttle control rod by rotating the clevis 2½ turns counterclockwise. Assemble the throttle control rod to the accelerator shaft assembly. Hold the clevis to prevent binding and tighten the lock nut.

Road test the car and if band or clutch slippage is evident, increase the length of the throttle control rod 3 turns, but do not exceed 3½ turns of the clevis.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[Selfrich]

View attachment 31054
Here are the instructions that I posted:

Holes for the throttle linkage adjustment are provided in the accelerator assembly mounting bracket.

Disconnect the throttle control rod from the transmission control to the accelerator assembly at the attaching pin. Insert a 1/4 inch drill bit through the holes at point “A”. Adjust the length of the carburetor connecting link to close the carburetor against its stop.

Adjust the accelerator assembly connecting link to obtain a pedal height of 4¼ inches. Remove the drill bit and check the alignment at point “A”. The drill bit must re-enter the holes freely.

Remove the drill bit and then adjust the throttle control rod. Pull upward on the throttle control rod to hold the transmission lever against its internal stop. Rotate the clevis until the attaching pin freely fits in the transmission control to the accelerator shaft assembly. Lengthen the throttle control rod by rotating the clevis 2½ turns counterclockwise. Assemble the throttle control rod to the accelerator shaft assembly. Hold the clevis to prevent binding and tighten the lock nut.

Road test the car and if band or clutch slippage is evident, increase the length of the throttle control rod 3 turns, but do not exceed 3½ turns of the clevis.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Mine is not the tea pot carb. It is a Holley. My linkage setup is a little different.

I did not change the position of the adjusting stud/nuts. I left them alone when I removed the carb for the rebuild.

I did add a washer to the throttle control arm adjustment connection to the carb because I thought it was too sloppy.

Anyone else running the Holley? If so can you provide a picture of yours?

All of my research on line discusses the "tension" on the throttle control arm.

Thanks

 

[Tom Alpers]

I rebuilt my carburetor on my 292 with a automatic trans, which is a 600 CFM Holley, and replaced the springs on the linkage, It shifted fine before the rebuild, now there is a delay shifting into 3rd. The RPMs are around 2k before it will shift. I am thinking my springs are too strong. I did not change the linkage screw adjustments. I have researched the internet and there seems to be two choices - 1. that my springs are too strong or 2. the tension on the transmission rod is to much. I did not change the rods.

I bought 2 new springs for the accelerator and used the same spring on the front.

Any help would be appreciated. I don't want to abuse the trans.

The first picture is the after rebuild. (carb.jpg) Notice the 2 springs vs. 1 in the second picture.
View attachment 31051View attachment 31052

From what's shown in your photos your linkage is all wrong. There should not be two rods connected to the carburetor. It should be setup as the other person's manual diagram showed.

 

[Selfrich]

Well I solved my own problem.

When I placed the carburetor back on the manifold, I added washers under the nuts. The nut and washer closest to the throttle control was a little too wide. The control arm was hitting on the washer. Daaaa!

I removed the washer and my transmission shafts correctly.

 

[Pink T-Bird]

I rebuilt my carburetor on my 292 with a automatic trans, which is a 600 CFM Holley, and replaced the springs on the linkage, It shifted fine before the rebuild, now there is a delay shifting into 3rd. The RPMs are around 2k before it will shift. I am thinking my springs are too strong. I did not change the linkage screw adjustments. I have researched the internet and there seems to be two choices - 1. that my springs are too strong or 2. the tension on the transmission rod is to much. I did not change the rods.

I bought 2 new springs for the accelerator and used the same spring on the front.

Any help would be appreciated. I don't want to abuse the trans.

The first picture is the after rebuild. (carb.jpg) Notice the 2 springs vs. 1 in the second picture.
View attachment 31051View attachment 31052

I believe your linkages are reversed. The accelerator should connect on the lower/outer position and the kickdown should be on the upper/inner position. That is how an aftermarket Holley with the "Ford" kickdown should normally be set up. moving them to the proper locations may require readjustment of the rod lengths, but having incorrect linkage connection to the kickdown rod may lead to premature transmission failure.
There should be a lock washer under the nut on each carburetor mounting stud to keep proper tension through all operating temperatures as the fasteners heat and cool repeatedly.
On a separate note the dual springs should be sufficient. That front spring seems unnecessary.

 

[Selfrich]

Thanks for the feedback, but for others that have the same setup on their 292 that I do, here is the diagram for the Holley carb on Ford linkages from their installation manuals.

 

[Bruce Hardy]

I rebuilt my carburetor on my 292 with a automatic trans, which is a 600 CFM Holley, and replaced the springs on the linkage, It shifted fine before the rebuild, now there is a delay shifting into 3rd. The RPMs are around 2k before it will shift. I am thinking my springs are too strong. I did not change the linkage screw adjustments. I have researched the internet and there seems to be two choices - 1. that my springs are too strong or 2. the tension on the transmission rod is to much. I did not change the rods.
I bought 2 new springs for the accelerator and used the same spring on the front.
Any help would be appreciated. I don't want to abuse the trans.
The first picture is the after rebuild. (carb.jpg) Notice the 2 springs vs. 1 in the second picture.
View attachment 31051View attachment 31052