1500 RPM Idle

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My car is back together and runs great, its so smooth it almost feels foreign, but anyways, I was wonder who here knows how to adjust the idle on a 1992 Tbird with a 5.0... Any tips would be great, also, the throttle lever near the tv cable (which does have a new grommet, thanks to PDQ transmissions) it never actually hits the stop, its sitting off the stop... any help? If I did a piss poor job of explaining let me know an ill try to do better.
 
Chances are it is your TV cable. To set your TV cable:

IMPORTANT: The AOD transmission may feel like it is shifting at the right time when the TV cable is actually way off! The transmission will work for a while and then FAIL! It is critical that you learn to set the TV exactly like this paper says. Why?
So that you will "see" how it works, know that it's right and not be fiddling with it for an
hour, when and if you have some other problem.

1. Pull/push TV cable and block assembly out of throttle arm rubber grommet.

2. Have someone floorboard accelerator pedal from inside the car.
While the pedal is floored, push on the throttle body arm to make sure it's bottomed
(wide open) against its stop. (Adjust throttle cable, if necessary.)
3. Push the locking tab up through the adjustment block, with a pocket screwdriver, so that the locking tab is standing up next to clevis pin as shown in the picture.

4. While someone is holding' the throttle pedal all the way to the floorboard:
Pull the cable rail HARD towards the end of the cable with one hand, at the same time engage the clevis firmly into the throttle arm grommet.
Engaging the clevis automatically locks the tab by pushing it into the block.

5. Pull the block adjustment assembly out of the grommet:
Make a mark, on the rail, with a hacksaw blade or knife up against adjustment block.
This is the MAX TV mark.

6. Make another mark 5/16" from the max mark out on the rail. (Use a 5/16 pan bolt for a gauge.) This is MIN TV mark.

7. Make another mark midway between MAX mark and MIN mark. This mark is
average or MID-mark.

8. Unlock the adjustment tab. Set on MID-mark and lock tab. (Push it down into block.)
Install into throttle arm grommet and road test.
ROAD TEST
In manual "3", must have 3-2 kickdown at 50 mph (passenger cars).
CARB AND THROTTLE BODY INJECTOR MODELS: Seems to work best with
setting between MIN and MID.
PORT INJECTIONI MODELS(Standard): Start with a setting just under MID.
HIGH OUTPUT Port injection models: Start with setting just a hair over MID.

That's what I use to adjust my TV cable. I did it to the mid, but with the trans-go shift kit and my horse power level did not work well together. I ended up having to set it at the max setting, and it still shifts into OD when I don't want it to. Attatched is a picture showing the parts of the TV cable so you can see what they're talking about in the steps above. If you can't see the pic, PM me your email and I'll it to you.
 
No the TV cable is set correctly, I just found out that my idle air control valve is broken, because we tried adjusting idle speed on the MAF with an allen wrench. an we realized that it wasnt doing anything.
 
That was my next suggestion. Since you were working with the TV cable, that's where I'd start. Most times, it was something you were just messing with. IAC are known to raise the idle when they go bad. You're lucky though, you can go down to the local parts store and get one...us SC guys have to get it from Ford...and much more expensive, I might add. I should probably pick one up before too long as they will become obsolete very shortly, I'm sure.

You'll be happy once you get it running again...That trans-go can throw you back in your seat pretty good. Especially if you tighten that TV cable up closer to the max setting.
 
Yeah, it's set between mid an max, closer to the max side... an its definitely a strong gut wrenching shift... I love it... definitely worth the time.
 
according to my dad, awesome mechanic for 30 years... says my cars idle should be 600-700 rpm... this just doesnt sound right... it doesnt sound healthy there... anyone know what factory says it should be?
 
I'll have to check my manual. I think that 600-700 is right for a 5-speed, but since you've got an auto, the idle is higher. I want to say 800, but it's been a long while since I looked at that. I'll take a look at my shop manual and get back with you on that.
 
well the first one I bought didnt work right... the rpm's fluttered too much for my taste, so i returned it an got one that was more factory looking and functioning, and it automatically found its home at about 850-900 rpm, an it sounds strong there so im done messing with the car in terms of tweaks an repairs until I get the power steering pump and tighten down the header bolts (its making an annoying ticking noise since we pulled most of the exhaust for the tranny rebuild, I figured the bolts jus came loose a bit) Ill have pictures later on, when I get a new front bumper... until then it's still pretty rough looking.
 
Good to hear it's running well. I know about rough looks. I've got a few pics of mine when it was in pretty rough shape. Good news is that they can be brought out of that rough episodes and made to look really nice. Mine is still a bit rough in my opinion. I want a completely new paint job...and not a cheapy either. The paint I want will cost upwards of $8k or so...:eek: I'm not quite ready to commit to that much yet! I've got just a few more things to button up before I start that part.
 
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